Climbers on Annapurna have completed their first rotation to Camp 2. Those with supplementary oxygen could be ready to summit on their next push up, while the no-O2 climbers will need another partial trip up the mountain.
For now, patience may be advisable. Annapurna is currently overloaded with snow, increasing the risk of avalanches on this notoriously avalanche-prone mountain. The deep powder will also delay the rope fixing on the upper sections.
Still, there is no time to lose. These days, many climbers do Annapurna, then hurry over to Dhaulagiri during the first weeks of spring. From there, some move onto even higher peaks, including Kangchenjunga and Everest.
Most climbers set off on their rotation despite the pretty unstable conditions, with significant winds and snowy nights. Snow has fallen regularly since climbers arrived, which is why Annapurna looks so white compared to last spring.
Climbers leaving Base Camp on Annapurna. Photo: Stefi Troguet
No summit push yet
Most of those on Annapurna are outfitted by Seven Summit Treks and 8K Expeditions. This season, a significant number will not use supplementary oxygen on the barely more than 8,000m peak (8,091m). They will need to do at least one more acclimatization round up the mountain, as Israfil Ashurli of Azerbaijan explains below.
Ashurli and Valery Babanov of Russia returned to Base Camp yesterday after two nights on the mountain, one at Camp 1 (5,050m) and one at Camp 2 (5,511m).
“The route above Camp 2 hasn’t been prepared yet,” Ashurli noted. “For our next rotation, once the route is open, Babanov and I plan to spend the night at Camp 3 and possibly Camp 4, after which we’ll be ready to summit without oxygen.”
Other climbers remained at Camp 2 for a second night, Ashurli noted.
No-O2 women climbers
Stefi Troguet of Andorra, who also plans to climb without bottled gas, shared some details of the route this year. She points out that the line to Camp 1 has been fixed on rocky terrain in order to avoid the seracs on the glacier.
“Between Camp 1 and Camp 2, [the route] is simply spectacular,” she enthused. But she admitted that the high winds made progress and pitching tents at Camp 2 challenging. Check a video by Charles Page of Canada:
Marie Saame of Estonia is also attempting Annapurna no-O2 for a second time, after her first attempt last spring. She trekked from Tatopani village to Base Camp in two days, just in time to join the rest on their acclimatization round to Camp 2. She returned to Base Camp today. Saame has already summited Gasherbrum I and II, Broad Peak, and Manaslu without bottled oxygen.
Base Camp tour
Meanwhile, Ashok Lama, a local guide with 8K Expeditions, has posted a video with a tour of Base Camp:
