A falling serac struck a group of Russian climbers on Gasherbrum IV yesterday, with disastrous consequences. Sergey Nilov is presumed dead, and two others are injured, one of them badly. Family and friends at home are trying to arrange a rescue and are asking for help from the worldwide mountaineering community.
Sergei Nilov, Mikhail Mironov, Alexey Bautin, Sergei Mironov, and Evgeni Yablokov were on the highly difficult Gasherbrum IV (7,925m), hoping to retrieve the body of Dmitry Golovchenko. He died there in 2023 while he and Nilov were attempting the first ascent of the Southeast Ridge. At the time, Golovchenko suffered a fatal fall from 7,684m. Nilov managed to descend on his own and reached his partner’s body, wrapped him in a tent and, unable to move him, left.
Nilov: 2023 survivor buried under serac
Sergey Nilov at the icefall on Gasherbrum IV last year. Photo: Mountain.ru
“Their expedition was meant to bring closure to a tragic loss,” said a press release by the Pakistan Alpine Club.
But the retrieval attempt has ended in a second tragedy. According to the Pakistan Alpine Club, a falling serac hit the team at approximately 6,400m, as they moved upward through a hazardous icefall leading to the ridge.
At the moment of writing the story, Sergei Nilov is reported missing but presumed dead, as his partners said he was buried under the serac. Mikhail and Sergei Mironov were injured, one seriously.
“They can’t descend by themselves since one is badly injured and they only have one ice axe for the two of them,” Irina Morozova of the Russian Federation of Alpinism told ExplorersWeb.
The stranded climbers on Gasherbrum IV. Photo courtesy of Irina Morozova
Help needed
Bautin and Yablokov were unharmed and were airlifted yesterday to Skardu. They are willing to return to the mountain to rescue the two Mironovs, but they need help. Some local climbers they asked had to refuse since they lacked the necessary skills to proceed up the highly technical icefall. Therefore, the survivors are looking for highly skilled climbers near Skardu who could assist them.
“The helicopters will try to conduct another rescue effort to locate the three missing climbers, including Sergey Nilov,” Irina Mozorova said. “It is unlikely that longline rescue techniques will be feasible, so a physical approach to the climbers at approximately 6,400m in the icefall is necessary.”
The helicopter will try to drop a tent, medicine, and supplies to the stranded climbers.
If anyone can help, please email us at contact (at) explorersweb.com and we will put them in touch with Alexey Bautin. He can be also reached directly at the Blue Sky Hotel in Skardu.
Golovchenko and Nilov on Gasherbrum IV last year. Photo: Sergey Nilov
