First Ascent of Shaue Sar in the Karakoram

On May 27, a three-man team made the first ascent of 6,653m Shaue Sar in the Karakoram.

Austrian skyrunner and climber Philipp Brugger, Italian Tomas Franchini, and Austrian Lukas Waldner traveled to Pakistan in mid-May to attempt the unclimbed peak. At the time, they didn’t reveal which mountain they were going for, only that they had trained hard and that Franchini has been waiting to attempt this for three years.

Climber from below

Climbing up the first 1,400m on the North Face of Shaue Sar. Photo: Philipp Brugger

 

The upper glacier slopes. Photo: Philipp Brugger

 

roped climber in red from below

Steeper pitches led to a beautiful ridge. Photo: Philipp Brugger

 

“The peak lies in the Momhil Valley in Pakistan, five kilometres before Malangutti Sar,” Philipp Brugger told ExplorersWeb. Momhil Valley is near the Shimshal.

The talented trio ascended via the 2,000m North Face of the mountain. The first 1,400m was classic north face climbing. They then reached some steeper pitches to acess a beautiful ridge.  At around 6,200m, they reached the upper glaciated slopes of Shaue Sar.

Shortly before reaching the upper glacier slopes at around 6,200m. Photo: Philipp Brugger

 

After summiting, they descended via the same route, with lots of downclimbing and rappels on ice.

Philipp Brugger attempted the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,452 m), the highest unclimbed peak in the world (where climbing is permissible), in 2020 with Jordi Tosas. He also holds two speed climbing records in the Alps.

Little is known about Shaue Sar, which was unnamed until recently. “We gave it the name ‘shaue’, which means ‘horn’ in the local language, because we found so many ibexes there near Base Camp,” explained Brugger.

More details to come.

The steep North Face of Shaue Sar. Photo: Philippe Brugger

Kris Annapurna is the writer of Explorersweb.

Kris has been writing about history and tales in alpinism, news, mountaineering, updates of news during the climbing seasons in Himalaya, Karakorum, etc., for the last 9 month for Explorersweb. Prior to that, Kris spent time at/worked at Real State agent, interpreter and sworn translator in criminal law.

Based in Madrid, Spain, and trips to Hungary (homeland).

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damiengildea
1 month ago

Thanks Kris, interesting climb.

Just a note for anyone looking at that list of ‘unclimbed’ peaks in Pakistan. Like all such lists issued by the governments of Pakistan, Nepal and India is very inaccurate and/or out of date.

Just off the top of my head, the following peaks on that list have definitely been climbed:

Saser Kangri II East in 2011
Chongtar in 1993, also it’s in China not Pakistan
Khunyang Chhish East in 2013
Bularung Sar in 1990
KarpoGo – 1989, it’s also in China, not Pakistan
Pamri Sar in 1986

Jmaf
Jmaf
1 month ago

Beautiful mountain, beautiful style (ie no fixed ropes or sherpas), well done boys!