James Baxter, 65, has cycled across Africa from Namibia to Tanzania in 119 days. On September 5, the British adventurer stepped into the Indian Ocean to mark the end of his 5,639km journey.
Baxter’s route also took him through Botswana, Zambia, and Malawi. ExplorersWeb last wrote about Baxter as he crossed into Malawi.
After leaving Zambia, Baxter crossed Malawi from west to north and pushed through the varied landscapes of central Tanzania to the Indian Ocean. His most recent legs describe a region of contrasts — from remote mission stations to bustling markets, dense jungle to dry savannah, and the warmth of strangers encountered along the way.
Central Malawi
On July 30 (Day 82), Baxter crossed from Zambia into Malawi at Mchinji. Almost immediately, he noticed the difference — red-brick houses, roadside kilns, and vibrant markets spilling onto the roads. His first days carried him through Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi, which he found soulless. From there, he descended toward Lake Malawi. By 3 August, he was at Nkhotakota, a port town on the shores of the lake, where he watched the Mwela winds whip the lake into whitecaps.
Topping up calories with fried cassava, a starchy root vegetable. Photo: James Baxter
From there, he cycled north along the lake, through Ngala on August 5 (Day 88), and reached Nkhata Bay the next evening. He rewarded himself with two rest days on August 7-8 (Days 90–91) at a lodge, snorkeling among colorful cichlids and exploring the lively town markets, before preparing for the long climb into Malawi’s northern highlands.
Nkhata Bay. Photo: James Baxter
North Malawi
The next morning, on August 9 (Day 92), Baxter faced a tough 1,000m climb from the lakeshore to Mzuzu, the capital of Malawi’s northern region. The following days carried him through steep, forested country, past rubber plantations and into Livingstonia, where a century-old mission station, with its hospital, church, and university, left a lasting impression on the Briton. Baxter was still heading north, tracing the shore of Lake Malawi from a distance.
Scottish missionaries built the Livingstonia Mission Church. Photo: James Baxter
From August 10–15 (Days 93–98), Baxter worked steadily north, past fishing villages strung out along the beaches, their nets full of the same cichlids he had marveled at underwater just days before. Markets were rich with tomatoes, cassava, and dried fish, while children chased alongside his bike in fascination.
Baxter had to cycle on rough roads. Photo: James Baxter
By August 15, he reached Karonga and crossed the Songwe River into Tanzania, trading his last kwacha (the currency of Malawi) for shillings and sitting down to a hearty plate of rice and beef stew.
West Central Tanzania
Baxter’s Tanzanian chapter began on August 16 (Day 99) with a grinding climb into lush highlands. Here, he saw a society in transition: farmers growing not only for subsistence but also for markets, investing in timber, tea, and rice. The cycling was punishing, with endless ascents and descents on dirt tracks, but the energy of the villages kept him moving.
One of many undulating dirt tracks. Photo: James Baxter
Over the following days, he continued through the Kilombero Valley, surrounded by timber operations and rice paddies, tallying more than 10,000m of ascent and descent in less than two weeks.
A Masai herdsman carries a live sheep on his back. Photo: James Baxter
By August 29 (Day 112), Baxter had reached the small town of Mbingu, where he found refuge with Franciscan sisters at their Spiritual Center.
East Central Tanzania
On August 31 (Day 114), Baxter turned east from Ifakara, a town in the center of Tanzania, and set his sights on the Indian Ocean. The challenge was the infamous T1 highway, Tanzania’s main artery inland from Dar es Salaam. Here, he often shared the road with convoys of roaring trucks.
At times, he found relief on parallel dirt tracks, and in Morogoro, he passed beneath the impressive cloud-draped Uluguru Mountains, their fertile slopes feeding the markets below.
The Uluguru Mountains. Photo: James Baxter
Finally, on September 6, Baxter rolled into Bagamoyo, once a hub of the East African slave trade. Carrying his bike into the surf, he dipped his wheels in the Indian Ocean, closing a 119-day odyssey across the continent.
