First ascents

The sherpa brothers pose in a trail on rocky mountain terrain

Sherpa Brothers Bag Unclimbed 6,000’er in Khumbu

It has become a welcome trend: After sherpas finish...
A climber on a traverse on snow in a whiteout

Chinese Bag First Ascent of World’s 4th-Highest Unclimbed Peak

Some of the highest unclimbed peaks lie in remote...
b/w portrait of Gunter Oskar Dyhrenfurth

Remembering Gunter Oskar Dyhrenfurth

On this day in 1886, the German-Swiss mountaineer, geologist,...
The recent first ascent Japanese route on the north face of 6,652m Pholesobi Peak.

Light Japanese Teams Succeed on Two Little-Known 6,000’ers in Nepal

Akihiro Oishi, Hiroki Suzuki, and Suguru Takayanagi have made...
The climbers smile in mountain gear, Bielecki gives a thumbs-up

Adam Bielecki and Louis Rousseau Target Unclimbed Karakoram Peak

Adam Bielecki of Poland and Louis Rousseau of Canada...
Climbers on a snow slope heading toward a corniced summit

A First Ascent in the Karakoram’s Shimshal Valley

Philip de-Beger of the UK, Lorenzo Heis of Switzerland,...
Mashallah Sar and the first ascent route.

Team Makes Three First Ascents in Northern Pakistan

An international team of four climbers has made three...
two climbers on a snowy ridge, with rock and snow peaks around.

Piolet d’Or Winner Yuri Koshelenko Bags First Ascent in Indian Himalaya

Flying under the radar as usual while climbing in...
a picturesque pillar of rock below a partly cloudy sky

Earliest-Known Rock Climb Stood Unrepeated for Centuries

If people rock climbed before 1492, the evidence is...
Yashkuk Sar I.

Climbing History of the Peaks of the 2024 Cutting Edge Grants. Part 2: Yashkuk Sar

Every spring for over a century, the American Alpine...
Left to right, Um Hong-Gil, Dawa Yangzum, and Lakpa Dendi.

Strong Korean-Nepalese Team Heads for Unclimbed Jugal I and II

Renowned climber Um Hong-gil of South Korea is back...
Marek Holecek, left, and Matej Bernat arm in arm at Sura Peak base camp.

Weekend Warm-Up: Sarcasm, Humor, and the First Ascent of Sura Peak

The trouble on Sura Peak, at first, was that...
The Himalayan unclimbed peaks under the sun.

South Korean Pair Target Two New Khumbu Routes

Ahn Chi-young and Woo Seok-ju of South Korea will...
Jugal Himal.

Solo Climber Heads for Newly Opened Jugal 3

Nepal's Department of Tourism of Nepal has published an...
a climber in a sleeping bag, sitting in the snow in the dark

Weekend Warm-Up: Script to a Very Cold Climb

Rarely is it easy to understand a film through...
3 climbers celebrate

Weekend Warm-Up: Aguja Mermoz, As Straightforward As Patagonia Gets

Maybe surprisingly, the steep east face of Aguja Mermoz...
Romano Benet amongst the seracs.

Top 10 Expeditions of 2023: #8: Kabru South

Peter Hamor didn't have a rewarding experience on Kangchenjunga...
Cerro Nora West in winter

A First Ascent In Northern Patagonia

Last week, Italians Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera made...
The winners stand on stage, smiling and holding their trophies.

New Route in Tien Shan Wins Russian Piolet d’Or

The new route up 6,873m Military Topographers Peak has...
A climber in the shade of the north face, getting his backpack ready.

Japanese Duo Attempts Unclimbed Peak in Eastern Nepal

Another Japanese team has just returned from the Kangchenjunga...
The climber climbing up a smooth, steep ice field, as seen from the leading climber above.

Piolet d’Or Winner Tim Miller On a True Climbing Adventure

Tim Miller is the Millennial half of a cutting-edge...
The climbers smile and hold a Czech flag with a sea of clouds at sunset behind.

Nepal First Ascents: Tengi Ragi Tau, Dhamovar, Jugal 5

Several teams have just returned from Nepal with first...
The first ascent's route of Yansa Tsenji a.k.a Dhagpache or Dragpoche.

A First Ascent in the Langtang Himal

On Oct. 28, IFMGA mountain guides Joshua Jarrin of...
Marva Peak, Peru and the new route of the first ascent of the peak.

Slovakian Duo Makes First Ascent of a Peruvian 5,000’er

From July 15 to Aug. 15, Slovakian climbers Marek...

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