High winds continue to thwart all attempts on Broad Peak. The mood in Base Camp is one of fatigue and frustration. This weekend, three Russians tried their best but had to turn around at 7,800m in very bad weather. They spent last night in Camp 3 and returned to Base Camp today.
Tom Kitta writes that the climbers remaining in Base Camp will listen to the Russians’ report tonight at a general meeting and make their final decisions.
“Everyone has had enough,” he says. Yet hope remains for a last-ditch attempt on July 25-26 if the weather improves.
Ropes controversy
Some accusations have further dampened the mood in Base Camp. Sabin Thakuri of Nepal’s Blue Ski Treks & Tours notes that Karakorum Expeditions — the Pakistani agency in charge of laying the ropes on Broad Peak — fixed until 7,400m and then retreated.
“On the way back, they also took all the 19 bottles of oxygen, [which were] deposited in Camp 3 for their clients, ” Thakuri wrote on Instagram. “[This] means they are not going back.”
Back in Base Camp, they said that their fixing members are tired, Thakuri added. “They also mentioned that the rope they took is not enough.”
The quality and amount of rope on Broad Peak have been a topic of controversy and some rancor. Thakuri noted that this year, over 80 people have permits for Broad Peak, and they have all waited in vain for the route to be fixed.
Samiya Mirza of Karakorum Expeditions responded to Thakuri’s statements in the comments section of his post.
“Karakorum Expeditions possesses ample rope to secure routes up to the summit,” she wrote. “Despite experiencing two unsuccessful summit attempts, our team remains determined and prepared for another push.”
Same vibes on K2
K2 Base Camp projects a similar sense of disappointment. Some expedition leaders, such as Mingma G, believe that 2024 could be a year with no summits. Others, such as Benjamin Vedrines of France, continue to hope for a weather window.
