Evgeniy Glazunov Goes ‘Without Insurance’ on Bold Caucasus Solo

Russia’s Evgeniy Glazunov today reported a solo ascent in a celebrated Georgian cirque.

The Chaukhi Massif draws comparisons to the Italian Dolomites with its jagged spires and picturesque location. The Caucasus Mountains surround the Chaukhis, which pierce the sky above a river valley leading to the colorful Abudelauri Lakes.

Glazunov took a bold line alone up Chaukhi I (3,600m) at 6a+ max. The Irkutsk, Russia-based climber broke down the 600m route, which he did not name, into 10 pitches. He reported he climbed three pitches on rope solo, then re-evaluated his style.

He proceeded to ascend “without insurance, just tied the rope to myself!”

Though Glazunov was not immediately available to verify the auto-translation, this suggests that he stopped placing protection, undertaking significant exposure along the route.

“The pleasure that has no equal!” he wrote.

Glazunov would not be unfamiliar with the dangerous end of a climb. In 2021, Hungarian journalist Laszlo Pinter commented on a “scary solo” he carried out in Russia’s Sayan Mountains. Klinok (6a, 450m) carries the reputation of the hardest route in the range.

Well-filmed and explanatory, the video of the climb merits a watch for those interested in Glazunov’s skill.

Sam Anderson

Sam Anderson takes any writing assignments he can talk his way into while intermittently traveling the American West and Mexico in search of margaritas — er, adventure. He parlayed a decade of roving trade work into a life of fair-weather rock climbing and truck dwelling before (to his parents’ evident relief) finding a way to put his BA in English to use. Sam loves animals, sleeping outdoors, campfire refreshments and a good story.