Filip Babicz of Poland has chosen the Matterhorn for his latest speed climbing stunt. He climbed all four ridges of the iconic mountain in 7 hours, 43 minutes, and 43 seconds.
With a single starting and ending point at the Orionde refuge on the Italian side of the mountain and without external support, Babicz climbed two ridges up and the other two down, making a huge “8” shape on the mountain. See the photo below.
Babicz completed the feat in one push with no previous deposits.
“The sole exchange of equipment/supplies was done on the foot of the mountain between ending the first climb and beginning the second one,” he said.
“This project is inspired by the pyramidal shape and aesthetic of the mountain…The first principle was that the track should emphasize it.”
Solo climbs and descents
His partial times and routes were:
First, he climbed up the Furggen Ridge via the Strapiombi (an overhanging section) in 1 hour and 38 minutes. Babicz claims this is both a record time on the ridge and the first free solo ascent. Then he downclimbed the Hornli Ridge (the normal route) in just 40 minutes!
Next came the technically demanding Zmutt Ridge, which he climbed from the base at 3,410m to the Swiss summit in 2 hours and 18 minutes, again a record time, according to the Polish climber. Finally, he downclimbed the Lion Ridge, in Italian territory, to the Colle del Leone (the Lion’s Col) in 37 minutes.
Babicz is an expert speed climber with many previous fast solo climbs on routes around the world, but especially in the Alps. Here, he has done speed ascents of the complete Puterey Ridge to Mont Blanc, Piz Badile, and Grand Capucin. He is also a superb dry-tooler, with feats such as the first repetition of Bring da Ruckus, considered by many as Scotland’s hardest mixed winter route.