High on the remote granite cliffs of Sam Ford Fiord, Baffin Island, climbers Erik Boomer and Ky Hart have completed a new big wall route in one of Canada’s most isolated regions. The 23-day ascent, which they named Sikunga Express (WI3 M7 5.10 A3+ Grade VII, 975m, 19 pitches), tested their mettle through cold temperatures, storms, and sustained technical difficulties.
Near the top of the climb, with only one usable rope remaining and over 500m of exposure beneath them, the pair were pinned to their portaledge as strong Arctic winds hammered the wall. It was one of the most exposed moments of a trip defined by commitment and the need for well-rounded climbing skills.
Boomer and Hart had traveled to the east coast of Baffin Island in search of unclimbed terrain. They found it on a sweeping face just north of Clyde River on the southwest-facing side of photogenic Sam Ford Fiord, considered the Yosemite Valley of the Canadian Arctic.
Full commitment
Exposure high on the wall. Photo: Erik Boomer/Ky Hart
Their approach was exploratory from the outset.
“We kind of showed up there with a loose plan of climbing something new,” Hart said. “This cliff seemed to have the least amount of [water] runoff and was seemingly steep.”
Temperatures were cold during the early stages of the climb, with daily highs around -7˚C and averages around -15˚C.
“There was a good 60m ice pitch at the very beginning,” Hart recalled. “Those first couple of days, we had a high of seven degrees.”
From that initial ice pitch, the route climbed through increasingly complex terrain, demanding a combination of alpine, mixed, and aid skills. The pair encountered loose rock and challenging aid sections that pushed their skills and gear.
“Every style of aid [climbing], clean to nailing, to copperheads hooking,” said Boomer. The lower pitches were also prone to being loose. “Rampy ledges that would come off in the beginning and, you know, send down some rocks,” Hart added.
Pinned to the wall
The pair faced snow and violent winds while sleeping on the wall. Photo: Erik Boomer/Ky Hart
After a mid-route snowstorm forced a temporary pause, Boomer and Hart pushed higher, only to be caught in severe wind while camped on one of their most exposed bivouacs right near the prow of the face.
“The wind started picking up,” Hart said. “It was funny at first until we got picked up on the ledge and put back down.”
“We were kind of hanging on for dear life in that ledge during that windstorm, just getting tossed around and just hanging onto the straps,” Boomer added.
Topping out on Sikunga Express, with frozen Sam Ford Fiord below. Photo: Erik Boomer/Ky Hart
Unable to move safely, the two spent the day pinned to the wall, their portaledge buffeted by strong gusts. As the storm wore on, they took stock of their dwindling equipment.
“We had core shot three out of our four ropes,” said Hart. “The gear was getting thin.”
Despite the conditions, they continued upward and reached the summit just as the weather warmed dramatically.
“It was a huge swing,” Boomer said. “We were definitely dodging a lot of rockfall.”
20 nights
The komatik (Inuit sled) that brought all their equipment into the remote fiord. Photo: Erik Boomer/Ky Hart
In total, Boomer and Hart spent 20 nights on the wall. Including the time spent route finding and establishing the lower pitches, the full expedition spanned 23 days from May 1 to May 23.
With a snowmobile and komatik (wooden sled), they had their own transportation in one of the most remote climbing areas in Canada.
“We were able to insert and extract ourselves,” Boomer explained. “Cruise around and choose our formation a little bit more relaxed.”
Steep terrain ahead. Photo: Erik Boomer/Ky Hart
Their route adds a new line to the vast granite walls in this part of Baffin Island. Despite a reasonable amount of climbing activity in the region in recent decades, it suggests there is still much potential for exploratory climbing. The climb also marks a further step in Boomer’s transition from elite whitewater kayaker to Arctic traveler and now big wall climber.
“Overall, it was a sweet trip,” Boomer said. “We wanted to do a new line and we did it.”
