Gasherbrum IV: Nilov In Hospital, Search for Golovchenko Stalls

News from Gasherbrum IV is short and somber: Sergey Nilov was flown to the hospital in Skardu today, and the search mission to try and find Golovchenko has been called off for the moment, sources from Base Camp said.

As per the sources, Nilov flew yesterday to Paiju Camp, a two-day trek from Skardu along the Baltoro route, for a preliminary health check at the military post there. He had minor frostbite and exhaustion. However, Nilov said that he was feeling well enough to return to the mountain in the rescue helicopter, to show the pilots where his partner had fallen.

In the end, bad weather prevented the helicopters from returning to the mountain. Since then, the military aviation authorities have been waiting for further instructions from Golovkencho’s family, and Nilov has transferred to the hospital in Skardu.

Nilov’s condition is currently stable, according to The severity of his injuries varies depending on the source, but he seems to be recovering.

Sergey Nilov and Dmitry Golovchenko were attempting a new route on the southeast ridge of Gasherbrum IV, a route never before attempted. They climbed in a long, alpine-style push. For three weeks, they had remained on the mountain. Climbing off-season, they were the only climbers left in the Karakoram at the time.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.