The hardest women’s mixed climb ever and first ascent Saphira M15 – by Lucka Hrozová.
(Petr Jandík/horyinfo.cz) During her visit in Colorado Czech limber Lucie Hrozová won the traditional competition in Ouray, in the women’s category and she would take the bronze in the men’s category (the same route was climbed).
Lucka then went on to climb the most difficult mixed climb in the USA – Mustang M14 – on the first go.
Lucka is still the only woman, who has conquered more difficult mixed routes than the M14-, numerous M 14, which she succeeded in climbing.
This time she established the new hardest mixed climb in USA, Saphira, which she rated M15-, because it was harder than all the M14 she has climbed, including Ironman M14+!
More about Lucka’s climb, in her own words:
The mythical dragon of the Eragon saga. Her den is now found in Vail, Colorado.
It comes to life with the oncoming freeze. Its size reaches a respectable 55 meters.
Standa Stenley Vrba discovered this line two years before and bolted it. A Czech native, an excellent alpinist, who has been living in the USA for 17 years, has numerous ascents under his belt. This was very impressive for me.
I was so impressed with the Saphira line, that it was the first thing I wanted to conquer.
Saphira logically leads between rock and icy sections. It is identified by its variety in climbing. Upright, technical climbing, a long, strong, top and the finish is in the legendary Octopussy icicle.
It crosses the Mustang M14 route. (At the time, it may have been a pity that I didn’t attempt the Mustang as the first route because I was then successful in climbing it in my first attempt).
However, I did manage to injure my finger. My middle finger started turning purple and doubled in size once I climbed Mustang. Fortunately, it was nothing serious. Taking a few days off was enough. I was then able to fully start climbing again and stand at the foot of the incredible line.
I began climbing with great concern because the path had never before been climbed. The US climbers tried it for the last two years, but without success. On the other hand, it was a great challenge and Standa gave me a lot of courage.
Since I cannot fly like a mythical dragon, the climb up was a big battle, which I was able to conquer at the end. Apart from beaten up legs, nervousness as well as fear during the way down, I also faced frost like in Alaska. However, I cannot whine because Standa, who had been securing me in the frost for 50 minutes straight, and Jack, who was filming me, while hanging on the ice fall, Fang, during the climb, had to be much colder than me.
I am very grateful and thankful to Standa, his wife, Magda, Jack and my father for their tremendous support in Colorado. Therefore, my climb also belongs to them.
I would also like to thank my sponsors, the magazine Lidé a hory (People and Mountains), Singing Rock and Asolo.
