Italians Open New Route Variant on Nanga Parbat

On June 26, Italian mountain guide Francois Cazzanelli and teammate Pietro Picco opened a new route variant on Nanga Parbat’s Diamir face.

Aosta Valley Express

The new variant joins the Kinshofer route at 6,000m (at Camp 2). Cazzanelli and Pietro arrived there, where they met their companions. The entire group then descended to Base Camp on the same day.

The new route variant on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat.

The new route variant on the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat. Photo: Francois Cazzanelli


The new variant is 1,400m, 90° on ice, and M6 85° on snow. They have named it the Aosta Valley Express, in tribute to Aosta guides (mountain guides from a region of northwestern Italy). Because they made it in a single push from Base Camp to 6,000m, they added ‘express’.

The new route variant on Nanga Parbat. A rope shows the route down a snow-laden slope.

An impressive photo of the new variant, with ice, snow, and rocks. Photo: Francois Cazzanelli


Cazzanelli and Picco are part of a larger group that includes Roger Bovard, Marco Camandona, Emrik Favre, and Jerome Perruquet. The team aims to climb Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak, and K2. They do not use supplemental oxygen and are fully independent.

Before starting on Nanga Parbat they acclimatized on nearby Ganalo Peak, reaching a height of 6,100m.

The group will now take some time to rest before continuing.

Broad Peak

Yesterday, Denis Urubko arrived at Broad Peak Base Camp. Urubko managed the approach trek in just two days, without rest. He plans to help some friends set up Camp 1 and Camp 2, and then he will head to Gasherbrum I and II.

A montage of photos showing Sherpas fixing ropes on Broad Peak.

The Furtebach Adventures Sherpa rope fixing team on Broad Peak. Photo: Furtenbach Adventures


Yesterday, the Furtenbach Adventures Sherpa team equipped the normal route as high as Camp 3.

Many climbers are starting their rotations. Yesterday, some climbed to Camp 1, and today many intend to reach Camp 2.

Karakorum Expeditions announced that they have set up Camp 1.

Climber Stefi Troguet takes a selfie with pink hair at K2 Base Camp.

Stefi Troguet at Base Camp. She will climb without the use of supplemental oxygen. Photo: Stefi Troguet


Several teams announced their arrival at K2 Base Camp on Monday, including Pioneer Expeditions and Madison Mountaineering.

Karakorum Expeditions reported that their rope fixing team reached lower Camp 2, at the foot of House’s Chimney.

A rope fixer stands on K2 with snow-covered mountains behind him.

A rope fixer with Karakorum Expeditions. Photo: Karakorum Expeditions

Kris Annapurna

KrisAnnapurna is a writer with ExplorersWeb.

Kris has been writing about history and tales in alpinism, news, mountaineering, and news updates in the Himalaya, Karakoram, etc., for the past year with ExplorersWeb. Prior to that, Kris worked as a real estate agent, interpreter, and translator in criminal law. Now based in Madrid, Spain, she was born and raised in Hungary.