Japanese to Attempt Unclimbed North Face in Pakistan

Yudai Suzuki, Kei Narita, and Yuu Nishida are returning to Pakistan’s Hindu Raj, one year after summiting an unclimbed peak in the area.

Last year, the Japanese trio made the first ascent of Ghamubar Zom V. It lies in a rarely visited area of northern Pakistan between the Karakoram and the Hindu Kush. But they felt the region offered many other potential first ascents. In particular, their minds fixed on a massive north face leading to twin summits and rising next to the Ghamubar Zom massif: 6,662m Thui I and 6,523m Thui II.

Now the team plans to return to that tantalizing region. They explain on their fundraising page:

“Both peaks are over 6,500m, steep from all directions, and there is almost no information, so we expect a tough and adventurous climb on mainly mixed terrain. It is a big wall that no one in the world has tried yet.”

Suzuki, Narita, and Nishida are all in their twenties and very clear about their preferred sort of climbing: alpine style, fast and light, in untrodden regions, and up new routes.

Like last year, the climbers will fly to Pakistan in September. They are well-trained after opening some new routes in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca some weeks ago.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.