Jost Kobush is flying to Nepal today to attempt a 7,000m first ascent. Beyond the climb itself, his overarching plan is to prepare for his third attempt to climb Everest solo in winter.
Before leaving, the German climber told ExplorersWeb that his Everest project remains part of a continuous process of developing as a climber. He also couched his previous attempts in this light.
An ambitious plan, done slowly
Four years ago, Kobusch stunned the climbing community when he announced that he would climb Everest solo in winter via the West Ridge. Some, including Reinhold Messner, didn’t take the young man seriously. Others did and feared for his life.
But Kobusch went, tried twice, and returned home safely. In 2019-2020, he reached some 7,300m on the West Ridge. On his second attempt in 2021-22, rough conditions pushed him back from 6,400m.
Then in February-March 2023, he soloed Denali as another step in his overall winter mountaineering preparation.
Climbing Denali showed me that I have the necessary skills to perform in harsh conditions. I felt at peace and in control up there. Overall, it was a very good experience, and everything went smoothly. Okay, I had to deal with some tough [moments], mainly the incredible cold at the summit, where my eyes froze shut.
Winter Everest goal: 7,500m
While Kobusch’s overall goal is eye-poppingly ambitious, his approach remains cautious, mature, and modest.
“My goal is to reach higher than in previous years and break the record for the highest point reached in winter on the West Ridge of Everest,” he told ExplorersWeb. “If I can reach 7,500m and have a chance to look up the Hornbein Couloir, I would feel entirely satisfied and consider my expedition a complete success.”
Kobusch on his first attempt on winter Everest. Photo: Jost Kobusch
Kobusch admits that he has not yet fully recovered from an injury he experienced a year ago during his Everest training.
“I was too eager to train hard, and I suffered a serious back injury that involved a long, snow recovery process,” he said. “That is one of the reasons I have set an altitude goal rather than aiming for the summit…It’s just that I am not yet ready.
“That does not mean that I don’t want to reach the summit. I really do and, well, who knows — but I want to go step by step.”
Unnamed 7,000m peak
Now, as part of his step-wise process, Kobusch has set his sights on an unclimbed 7,000’er. He declined to mention its name or even the region where it is located. However, he will have a live tracker, so his destination will appear on his website as soon as he arrives. For this climb, Kobusch will team up with occasional partner Nicolas Scheidtweiler.
Kobusch at a logge in Nepal during an expedition to Ama Dablam. Photo: Jost Kobusch
After the expedition, Kobusch has not yet decided whether he will remain in Nepal or return home for a couple of weeks before returning alone to Everest.
