K13: One Team Succeeds, Another Begins

Alpine style
Martin Elias on their fourth bivouac on K13. Photo: Martin Elias

Chamonix guide Martin Elias has shared some details of his team’s new route up K13 in Pakistan’s Kondos Valley.

Elias, along with Jerome Sullivan, Victor Saucede, and Jeremy Stagnetto of France, reached Dansam’s western summit at 6,600m, just 60m below the main summit. It was an impressive 1,600m route on mixed terrain up the North Spur, with difficulties up to M6.

The new route to Damsan/K13’s western summit. The main summit lies to the left. Photo/route: Martin Elias

“We spent six days on the wall, reaching the summit on [June] 29th,” Elias said. “On the summit, we were surprised to find some old gear. The mystery remains since there is no record of any previous expedition on that point.” According to the magazine Desnivel, the gear was an old piece of cord.

The final ramp up K13. Photo: Martin Elias

Meanwhile, a second group led by Juho Knuuttila of Finland is heading to this same peak. This time, they are aiming for the highest point.

“The main summit is one kilometre to the east and remains unclimbed, at least officially,” said Knuuttila. “Let’s see what we can do.”

The Finnish climber has previously shown his mettle on north faces in the Alps. He will climb with Nelson Neirinck of Belgium and Eivind Hughaas of Norway.

Juho Knuuttila. Photo: IG

Meanwhile, on Pumari Chhish…

Mathieu Maynadier’s friends have updated his social media while he is attempting Pumari Chhish. After some time stuck in Base Camp, the team has reached 5,600m after two days of acclimatization.

There is a good weather window next week, so we plan to do a second acclimatization lap and then we will be ready,” they reported. 


About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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Daniela Teixeira
6 months ago

Wow! What an asthetic line! Chapeau! This is Elite climbing! Congratulations to Martin Elias, Jerome Sullivan, Victor Saucede, and Jeremy Stagnetto.💪👏👏💪