K13: One Team Succeeds, Another Begins

Chamonix guide Martin Elias has shared some details of his team’s new route up K13 in Pakistan’s Kondos Valley.

Elias, along with Jerome Sullivan, Victor Saucede, and Jeremy Stagnetto of France, reached Dansam’s western summit at 6,600m, just 60m below the main summit. It was an impressive 1,600m route on mixed terrain up the North Spur, with difficulties up to M6.

The new route to Damsan/K13’s western summit. The main summit lies to the left. Photo/route: Martin Elias


“We spent six days on the wall, reaching the summit on [June] 29th,” Elias said. “On the summit, we were surprised to find some old gear. The mystery remains since there is no record of any previous expedition on that point.” According to the magazine Desnivel, the gear was an old piece of cord.

The final ramp up K13. Photo: Martin Elias


Meanwhile, a second group led by Juho Knuuttila of Finland is heading to this same peak. This time, they are aiming for the highest point.

“The main summit is one kilometre to the east and remains unclimbed, at least officially,” said Knuuttila. “Let’s see what we can do.”

The Finnish climber has previously shown his mettle on north faces in the Alps. He will climb with Nelson Neirinck of Belgium and Eivind Hughaas of Norway.

Juho Knuuttila. Photo: IG

Meanwhile, on Pumari Chhish…

Mathieu Maynadier’s friends have updated his social media while he is attempting Pumari Chhish. After some time stuck in Base Camp, the team has reached 5,600m after two days of acclimatization.

There is a good weather window next week, so we plan to do a second acclimatization lap and then we will be ready,” they reported.