K13: One Team Succeeds, Another Begins

Chamonix guide Martin Elias has shared some details of his team’s new route up K13 in Pakistan’s Kondos Valley.

Elias, along with Jerome Sullivan, Victor Saucede, and Jeremy Stagnetto of France, reached Dansam’s western summit at 6,600m, just 60m below the main summit. It was an impressive 1,600m route on mixed terrain up the North Spur, with difficulties up to M6.

The new route to Damsan/K13’s western summit. The main summit lies to the left. Photo/route: Martin Elias


“We spent six days on the wall, reaching the summit on [June] 29th,” Elias said. “On the summit, we were surprised to find some old gear. The mystery remains since there is no record of any previous expedition on that point.” According to the magazine Desnivel, the gear was an old piece of cord.

The final ramp up K13. Photo: Martin Elias


Meanwhile, a second group led by Juho Knuuttila of Finland is heading to this same peak. This time, they are aiming for the highest point.

“The main summit is one kilometre to the east and remains unclimbed, at least officially,” said Knuuttila. “Let’s see what we can do.”

The Finnish climber has previously shown his mettle on north faces in the Alps. He will climb with Nelson Neirinck of Belgium and Eivind Hughaas of Norway.

Juho Knuuttila. Photo: IG

Meanwhile, on Pumari Chhish…

Mathieu Maynadier’s friends have updated his social media while he is attempting Pumari Chhish. After some time stuck in Base Camp, the team has reached 5,600m after two days of acclimatization.

There is a good weather window next week, so we plan to do a second acclimatization lap and then we will be ready,” they reported. 

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with ExplorersWeb.com.

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

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Daniela Teixeira
Daniela Teixeira
11 months ago

Wow! What an asthetic line! Chapeau! This is Elite climbing! Congratulations to Martin Elias, Jerome Sullivan, Victor Saucede, and Jeremy Stagnetto.💪👏👏💪