K2 Summits, One Without Oxygen

8000ers K2 Karakorum
K2 climbers. Photo: Karakoram Summit

The first climbers summited K2 last night, including a 19-year-old Pakistani. Others groups will follow on Wednesday.

Once again, the first to the top were Sherpa climbers working for commercial expeditions. Pioneer Adventure’s Sanu Sherpa and Chiring Namgel Sherpa broke trail to the summit. An hour later, Lhakpa Sherpa and Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, leading their Russian and Ukrainian clients, followed them up.

Remarkably, Ukrainian Dmytro Semerenko summited without supplementary O2. His teammate, Irina Galay, became the first Ukrainian woman to summit K2.

Dmytro Semerenko, some days ago in Base Camp. Photo: Dmytro Semerenko

From the Alpomania team, Valentyn Sypavin and Pavel Sidorenko from Ukraine and Olga Koroleva, Aleksander Logachev, Kirill Semeshkin, and Vladimir Belkovich from Russia summited. (Names confirmed by RussianClimb’s Elena Laletina).

In addition to the four Sherpa guides mentioned above, the two Pioneer Adventure teams included Pemba Rita Sherpa, Lakpa Gyalzen Sherpa, a second Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, Pemba Dorchee Sherpa, and Tashi Sherpa.

Pakistani climbers

While exact times will have to wait, among the first to reach the summit was 19-year-old Shehroze Kashif of Pakistan. Kashif becomes the youngest climber ever to summit K2. He climbed with Muhammad Sharif. Shortly after, the Pakistani team from Hushe, led by Ali Durani and including Muhammad Hassan Hushe, Mushtaq Ahmad, and Usuf Meeri, also topped out.

Shehroze Kashif at Camp 3. Photo: Shehroze Kashif

Pushed back on Broad Peak and Gasherbrum I

Akhbar Syed of Lela peak reports that high winds and problems with the ropes forced climbers on Broad Peak back to Camp 3. On Gasherbrum I, an exposed gully and high avalanche risk from loads of fresh snow stopped Marco Confortola at 7,700m.

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About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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S R
S R
4 months ago

Bravo! Congrats to all those who summitted! Now get back to base safely 🙂

+3
Uwe
Uwe
4 months ago
Reply to  S R

Für mich sind das alle Helden! Ob mit oder ohne O2, ob mit verlegten Fixseilen oder ohne- man muss trotzdem den Mut für den Gipfel haben. Ich könnte das nicht.
RIP allen toten Helden! Viel Glück beim Abstieg allen Helden, die noch auf dem Berg sind!

+1
Apy
Apy
4 months ago

Hello Angela, I believe the full names of the Alpomania team are Pavlo Sidorenko, Olga Koroleva, Alexandr Logachev and Kirill Semeshkin. Hope everything goes well on the descent.

0
Apy
Apy
4 months ago
Reply to  Apy

The names are confirmed at mountain.ru

0
Samson Simon Sharaf
4 months ago

Let’s pray for good news only.

+2
OldHikerDude
OldHikerDude
4 months ago

That first image, the one looking down toward C4 from the Bottleneck is a great shot! Is it current? There appears to be other little light spots in the background. It looks odd. Congrats to all the summiteers while we all patiently wait for their safe descent. Thank you for your tireless updates, and great images!

+7
Ghzanfar
Ghzanfar
4 months ago

Way to go Shehroz! Amazing young man. Breaking world records only at 19. He is such a fearless, relentless and brave climber. He was the last to arrive at BC and is among the first ones to summit. Fast and furious, truly. Thumbs up and best wishes for his mountaineering career!

+2
Paul
Paul
4 months ago
Reply to  Ghzanfar

Climber or high altitude tourist as many on Everest and other mountains with fixed ropes and lots of supplementary O2?

+6
Jahan
Jahan
4 months ago
Reply to  Paul

lol…totally agree with you there @Paul. Unfortunately this is what alot of rich folks are doing to gain fame… higher sherpas so they can fix rope for them and use O2 to climb using fixed rope.

+2
Startup Bro
Startup Bro
4 months ago

They say K2 is incredibly difficult. Well, this just shows how overrated K2 is. Some 19y.o. and other tourists summitting K2…what is so hard about it? I’m cashed up so I’m going to give it a try and show others that it’s just a rich person’s playground.

+6
Syed Usman
Syed Usman
4 months ago
Reply to  Startup Bro

LOL… You are not even a tourist mountaineer based on your comments. Leave k2 aside and go to BP or Nanga before trying to commit a suicide on k2 expedition. People who has lost their lives were not inexperienced big mouths yet they never challanged K2. The ones who summitted it more than once have always said it is one of the toughest and some never want to be back. Mountaineers are different high breed man and it is not a game for rich brats as it wants your best and only a good soul can conquer the mountains who… Read more »

Startup Bro
Startup Bro
4 months ago
Reply to  Syed Usman

You’ve been reading too many fairytales. K2 has become so commercialized that I can send a 15yr old up it now and take away any sense of “achievement” from the so-called mountaineers. Put your fantasy and fairytales aside and look at what’s going on.

+3
Khizer
Khizer
4 months ago
Reply to  Startup Bro

Yeah. Tell that to the years without any summits on K2. And also to some of the best mountaineers ever buried at its feet.

+4
Qatadah
Qatadah
3 months ago
Reply to  Syed Usman

Syed usman you said a lot start up bro should try ratti Gali treck in June it is enough lols…

0
jim
jim
4 months ago
Reply to  Startup Bro

moron

+4
Startup Bro
Startup Bro
4 months ago
Reply to  jim

If that’s what you think of yourself, I won’t argue.

+2
Khizer
Khizer
4 months ago
Reply to  Startup Bro

That 19 year old summitted Broad Peak at 17. He’s not what you were at 19.

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Last edited 4 months ago by Khizer
Paul
Paul
4 months ago
Reply to  Startup Bro

K2 is hard, when you going to climb it in small team and without the fixed ropes or when you have to place them by yourself.
Each mountain is much more easy when you only use ropes fixed by others and O2. Same with Annapurna this season, big commercial expedition put on summit 60+ people.
and yeah, Shehroz is just high altitude tourist, he didn’t climb anything by himself.

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Aardvark
Aardvark
3 months ago
Reply to  Startup Bro

I think folks have missed your excellent and obvious sarcasm… well… not everyone! 😉

+1
Amie Burke
Amie Burke
3 months ago
Reply to  Startup Bro

Woah, you do realize that K2 is one of the hardest mountain out there to climb. K2 is very,very steep, the bottle neck and house’s chimney is dangerous because of rock falls and avalanche. Some of the best mountaineers have died trying. Also the weather on K2 is one of the most unpredictable out in the Himalayas. Sherpas fix ropes because they are apart of a team, it’s always been a huge team effort because you would not have energy to climb if you did it yourself. I would love for you to go climb k2 without supplemental oxygen and… Read more »

Wendy Harris
4 months ago

Shehroze Kashif of Pakistan Make the History on the second World’s Highest Mountain. The Mountaineering world is happy for you.

+3
Thor
Thor
3 months ago

Back in the day pretty much everyone climbed without O2.

0
Lenore Jones
Lenore Jones
3 months ago
Reply to  Thor

Oh, really? That’s not what I hear.

0
S M
S M
3 months ago

There is some jealousy and envity going on here . Ccome on! a 19 year climbed the mountain is an “achievement” with or without O2. Give him some time to try coming back to it without O2 .
People tend to forget what they were doing in the earlier years of climbing . This 19 year old after all reached the top of K2 which has a place like bottleneck where even ropes can not help save a fall.

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