Little Hope on Winter Nanga Parbat

With jet stream winds forecast to hit Nanga Parbat hard until February 10, Herve Barmasse and David Gottler have all but given up this year’s winter attempt.

The Italian and the German reached Base Camp in mid-December but have only managed to venture up the Schell route twice. Their high point was 6,200m.

David Gottler (left) and Herve Barmasse on a rare sunny day on Nanga Parbat. Photo: David Gottler

 

The climbers have flexible airline tickets home scheduled for the end of January and do not intend to prolong their stay in Pakistan. They are still willing to launch another push if next week’s forecasts prove wrong. But “honestly, that is very unlikely,” Barmasse admitted.

Yesterday, Simone Moro analyzed the Schell route on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat in an interview with ExplorersWeb. The Italian winter expert was not optimistic about his friends’ chances for an alpine-style attempt. Moro was especially concerned about the long upper section of the route. It would require either a very fast ascent or difficult bivouacs on the shadowy Diamir side of the mountain.

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with ExplorersWeb.com.

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

Subscribe
Notify of
guest
5 Comments
Oldest
Newest Most Voted
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
chris
chris
5 months ago

whats up with the hiking pole rope “fence”?
Is that supposed to be an anchor or is that just to warn them if they stumble outside taking a loo?

Emma
Emma
5 months ago
Reply to  chris

Looks like a shadow not a rope

Twinkletoes
Twinkletoes
5 months ago
Reply to  chris

Well I sure hope they have more solid anchors. I guess it’s the second option, unless they are expecting crowding and want to stave off their picnic area?

Lenore Jones
Lenore Jones
5 months ago

Hey, there’s a typo in one iteration of HervĂ©’s surname, where you have it as Barmansse.

It’s too bad about the weather, but I guess winter climbs will always have lower chances.

Iftikhar Ali
Iftikhar Ali
5 months ago

It’s better to wait there till Feb, hopefully they will get a clear window on Valentine’s Day