Manaslu: 6,650m Reached Via a New Line

All Manaslu climbers are back in Base Camp after their third and possibly last rotation before the final summit push.

Over the last four days, Alex Txikon has been fixing a new route from Camp 1 to 6,650m. “Phew, I am exhausted but so happy,” Txikon said. “The new variation route is great, really alpine!”

The new route in yellow compared to the usual line in magenta. An impassable bergschrund forced the climbers to devise this alternative. Photo illustration: Ana Azpilicueta/Alex Txikon


“Alex’s team did a beautiful job,” said Simone Moro. “They were able to climb the serac and cross most of the plateau above in the direction of Camp 3.”

The team will now rest and watch the weather closely. “With all the wind I…pray that over 7,000m we will find hard snow or ice,” said Simone Moro. [It] would make a nice gift of fate on my third winter expedition to Manaslu.”

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

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