Manaslu: Route to Camp 3 Re-Opened

The work done in the last few days by all hands, led by Txikon and Moro, has paid off.  They have fixed the route to 6,350m, and the climbers need just one more foray up the mountain before their summit bid is totally prepped.

Last Saturday, Simone Moro, Vinajak Malla, Tenji Sherpa, and Iñaki Alvarez forged a new line to the right of the huge bergschrund which had blocked their original route. They returned to Base Camp yesterday, tired but happy after fixing another 300 vertical metres. “We finally see the possibility of arriving at Camp 3 with two more days work,” said Moro. He notes that they have been swimming in “almost vertical snow” lately.

Simone Moro carries poles to mark the sections with no fixed ropes. Photo: Simone Moro


Alex Txikon, Iñaki Alvarez, and Sherpas Cheppal, Gelum, Namja, and Kalden then took their shift and headed up as heavily loaded as possible. Today, Alvarez and Gelum left 400m of rope, poles, and two ladders on the highest point fixed so far. Txikon and Sherpas Chhepal, Namja, and Kalden carried poles and another 1,000m of rope from BC to C1, where they are currently camped. Tomorrow, both groups (Txikon’s from C1 and Moro’s from BC), will continue their work.

The original route opened by the climbers from Camp 1 in red, the bergschrund (rimaya in Spanish), and the new line in blue. Illustration: Ana Azpilicueta, Photo: Alex Txikon

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

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