Manaslu Updated: Climbers Going Up

Alex Txikon and his partners are feeling great at Camp 3 and determined to go all the way to the top.

“We’ve covered in one day what took us three days on the previous rotation, we’re feeling f***ing good and happy with the work done,” an enthusiastic Txikon told his team in Base Camp.

They will leave early in the morning, pitch Camp 4 at about 7,000m by noon, grab a few hours’ shuteye, then head to the summit on Friday night.

“Conditions are okay, and the weather is better than forecast,” said Txikon. “Today we were supposed to get 20cm of snow, but there was nothing. Moreover, the sky is pretty clear. We will go on as long as the wind doesn’t change.”

Only problem: The summit is still far away, and 1,600 vertical metres above. They must cover a long distance, steep terrain, and the final knife-edge ridge to get to the top. And they must be there early on Saturday because the weather is expected to change for the worse later that day and throughout Sunday. On Monday, a snowstorm will settle in for days.

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with ExplorersWeb.com.

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

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Sara
Sara
1 year ago

Good luck. Hoping and praying u stay safe 🙏

Walid Hamadeh
Walid Hamadeh
1 year ago

What amazes me is how climbers listen to their instincts and the power of gut feelings. Here we have Txikon and Crew (Chhepal Sherpa and Iñaki Alvarez and Gelung Sherpa and Namja Sherpa) taking a go for the summit and Simone Moro pulling back and waiting it out. They are all technically and physically capable of summiting yet the human psyche has an immense power over someone’s decisions. With the summit push outcome unknown in the next couple of days, would Moro regret not summiting if the summit push was successful?

Nat
Nat
1 year ago
Reply to  Walid Hamadeh

I think he will try again indeed 😀

Andrew S.
Andrew S.
1 year ago

Seems like he called off his summit push. His tracker shows him heading back down the mountain, he’s between C2 and C1 now.