As Nepal celebrated the third anniversary of their team’s first winter ascent of K2, Manaslu and some Annapurna climbers are going home. Only the Makalu team continues to bide its time despite high winds.
Most cite the lack of a weather window for calling it quits. Nothing is expected soon. For the Annapurna climbers, there’s also the fact that Alex Txikon of Spain had to leave due to a health issue. However, long weather delays are not uncommon, especially in winter. Often, teams have to endure weeks in cold camps before a summit chance materializes. Strategies may be changing for winter climbing, as teams cut their experience short without even trying for the summit.
Manaslu
“It’s time to call off the expedition,” says Simone Moro. “The weather wasn’t in our favor, and for the next two weeks on Manaslu, winds up to 150 kph make it impossible for an alpine-style summit push.”
The Italian explained that two more weeks in base camp is a long time to spend “losing acclimatization and changing our style completely to achieve a potential summit.”
The climbers had planned a single, alpine-style push. Previously, they had trained on Ama Dablam but retreated during a summit attempt when young Sherpa Nima Rinji had some physical problems.
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Six left on Annapurna
On Annapurna, Sajid Sadpara of Pakistan and Sarah Abdovais of Iran are also on their way home, but the expedition is apparently not over. Although no one posts updates, Mattia Conte of Italy and five Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks are still hoping for a summit chance, according to Italian journalist Alessandro Filippini.
Previously, the Sherpas did most of the rope fixing until somewhere between Camp 3 and Camp 4. Some reports said they were ready to summit at the next opportunity. Filippini notes that Conte went up to Camp 2 today. (Check the video below of Sarah Abdovais in Camp 2 some days ago.) We have no news about Waldemar Kowalewski of Poland.
Makalu the tough way
The action continues on Makalu, a higher and usually windier peak than Manaslu and Annapurna. Yesterday, Sanu Sherpa told expedition outfitter Makalu Adventure that they had reached Camp 3 at 7,400m. The fierce winds kept them from pitching tents, but they stashed equipment and supplies there and retreated to Camp 1. They plan to continue back to Base Camp and wait until the wind moderates.
Left to right, Pastemba Sherpa, Sanu Sherpa, Phurba Onggel Sherpa. Below, Abolfazl Gozali of Iran. Photo: Makalu Adventure
In a previous foray last week in fierce conditions, Sanu Sherpa, Phurba Onggel Sherpa, and Pastemba Sherpa of Nepal, plus Abolfazl Gozali of Iran, reached and partly supplied Camp 2 last week. They spoke of “winds up to 100kph and extreme cold, down to minus 40˚C.”
The climbers have not used helicopters. They trekked to Base Camp on January 9 and have not left the mountain since then.
