There is news from both sides of Nanga Parbat: Czech climbers Marek Novotny and Ondra Hlasny have bagged the first summits from the normal route on the Diamir side, while David Goettler has finally — after five attempts! — triumphed from the Rupal side. He partnered with French skiers Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein.
At Base Camp on the Diamir side, most climbers have started a massive summit push. However, the route is not yet completely fixed, and conditions are deteriorating fast.
Diamir side
Sa’ad Mohamed of Pakistan confirmed that two Czech climbers, whom he identifies only as Marek and Ondra, summited at noon on June 26. We would welcome the help of the community to find their complete names. The expedition outfitter, Blue Sky Treks and Tours, posted the following story on Instagram:
The Czech climbers who summited Nanga Parbat on June 26. Photo: Blue Sky Treks & Tours
Sa’ad Mohamed, climbing without oxygen, set off from Base Camp yesterday, accompanied by a partner identified as Tashfeen. They reached Base Camp at 4:40 pm and reported difficult conditions.
“The route up to Camp 1 has considerably deteriorated,” Mohammad noted, referring to the effects of the intense heat.
Route in poor state
Meanwhile, Doroka Razinska-Samocko of Poland reached Camp 2 at 4 am today.
“We are climbing at night to avoid falling rocks and avalanches,” she reported. “Everything is melting and sliding down. The Kinshofer Wall was difficult in these conditions.”
Razinska-Samocko said she had climbed with Pasang Sherpa to Camp 2 but will proceed to Camp 3 tomorrow on her own. She will then go to Camp 4 the following day.
“It won’t be easy — we will need to fix ropes,” she noted.
Horia Colibasanu of Romania is also in Camp 2, preparing to head for Camp 3. He mentioned that a rock fell on a tent near his. Luckily, no one was injured.
Ali Pepper of Australia, climbing with Mikel Sherpa and intending to summit without oxygen, also reported that the glacier sections are quickly melting under the witheringly hot temperatures. They planned to leave Base Camp today, 24 hours later than most climbers, hoping the route would still be safe.
Rupal Face
David Goettler confirmed on Instagram that he summited Nanga Parbat and posted what looked like a summit photo of him and French skiers Boring Langenstein and Typhaine Duperier. Unfortunately, the German shared no details about the route or the style in which they did it. They planned for an alpine-style push up the Rupal Face and said that if conditions permitted, the French climbers would ski down and Goettler would paraglide.
We know at least that Duperier and Langenstein had their skis with them:
Duperier and Langenstein climbed and skied Nanga Parbat via the normal route in 2019. They wanted to repeat the feat down the huge Rupal Face. We will have to wait to see if they succeeded.
Goettler, 43, was attempting Nanga Parbat for the third summer in a row and his fifth time overall, always in alpine style.
Over 450 permits
Pakistani media have reported that as of last week, Gilgil-Baltistan authorities have approved 469 mountaineering permits. That’s likely almost the total for the season, since in Pakistan, everyone applies for permits in advance.
“The Department received 555 applications for mountaineering permits in 2025, surpassing last year’s total of 423,” The News said.
So far, the overall number of climbers on Pakistan’s 8,000m peaks seems rather small this season. However, climbers coming to K2 and Broad Peak will soon add to the action, as big teams such as 14 Peaks Expeditions are starting their approach trek this week.
Alpine-style teams
A significant number of alpine-style teams have headed to the country’s lower but technical peaks. Some started their projects very early in the season and are already done. The overall rise in temperatures and its impact on conditions have already reshaped the plans of some climbers, such as those on Ultar Sar, Hunza Peak, and Spantik.
Others will wait for what they hope will be better conditions in late summer or early fall. Last year, for example, Adam Bielecki of Poland and Louis Rousseau of Canada attempted some first ascents in the Hunza region in October but had mixed luck.
