Nanga Parbat: New Team at Rupal BC, Bad Weather Continues

Nanga Parbat climbers remain in BC as hostile weather is expected to last until mid-next week, if not more.

Nanga Parbat climbers remain in BC as hostile weather is expected to last until mid-next week, if not more. Meanwhile a new team arrives at Rupal Base Camp, and climbers on Diamir side have decided to group together on Kinshofer route.

Rupal Side Update

Nanga Dream team has apparently left the Base Camp and are on the way to Islamabad. The expedition was scheduled to continue till February 7th. However, due to ongoing bad weather and no summit window in sight, the group started the return journey earlier this week. Few members of team are reaching the capital today, while others are doing some social work in Tarishing village. In an interview with Polish website, Marek Klonowski told that they reached around 7200m-7300m in last summit-bid (not 7500m as previously quoted).

While Marek Klonowski and Pawel Dunaj were on the mountain, another team arrived at Rupal Base Camp. It was Brazilian born American lady climber Cleo Weidlich along with three Sherpa from Nepal; Pema Tshiring Sherpa, Temba Bhote and Dawa Sherpa. Reports suggest that she acclimatized in Nepal before heading to Nanga Parbat.

Cleo Weidlich has been involved in multiple controversies over the years and this time too climbing community has started questioning ethical relevance of the expedition which relies heavily on work done by Polish climbers on Schell route.

It is Cleo Weidlich’s first winter expedition. She has previously attempted Nanga Parbat in summer 2010 from Diamir side. Cleo was last seen on K2 in 2014.

Together on Kinshofer Route

Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have confirmed their change in summit push strategy. Instead of northeast side, they will join the international team on Kinshofer route.

“Thanks to the information from Tomek and Elisabeth about the state of the seracs, which is at any moment ready to collapse and in addition the bigger and bigger crag, we decided to unite the forces in the Kinshofer route.” Tamara explains. “I feel sorry, because the team of Txicon has already done almost all the fixing work and we had not the possibility to participate in it, but what I notice here, is that it never exist a competition here, but that our two teams are grown together in this period and share friendship.”

The two Italian climbers brought everything down from C2 and deposit below C3 on Northeast side, this Monday.