The political situation in Nepal has returned to normal remarkably quickly, and there is even an air of optimism in the country. Climbers are flowing back to the country’s mountains in record numbers, especially on Manaslu, where the first summits might occur by the end of the week. Others are starting on Dhaulagiri and, unusual in autumn, on Everest and Makalu. The monsoon rains have not yet withdrawn completely, but work on the routes and acclimatization trips is well underway.
The flow of information and images on social media is also back, after an unusually reticent spring season.
Record revenues
The Nepal Tourism Board and the Tourism Agencies Association of Nepal are encouraging foreigners to visit the country and ensuring that all services have been restored. Nevertheless, it is wise to exercise caution and to pay attention to the advice of local outfitters.
Climbing permits are being granted again, to the delight of local entrepreneurs.
“In just two weeks, from September 1 to 14, the government collected $1.19 million in climbing royalties, more than double last year,” Everest News reported. “Manaslu leads with 371 climbers, surpassing last autumn’s 308.”
The recent increase in climbing fees and the social unrest in the country have apparently had no impact on the number of climbers.
Manaslu: summits coming soon
With local flights restored, helicopters are dropping off climbers daily at Samagaon village, a one-day trek from Manaslu Base Camp. It is an ideal place to acclimatize and enjoy some tourism luxuries before heading to Base Camp, nearly 1,000 vertical meters higher.
A helicopter transports climbers to Samagaon yesterday. Photo: Climbing the Seven Summits
On the mountain, the Sherpa teams are hurrying to fix the ropes and supply the camps. The route is ready at least until Camp 3. The rope-fixing team could summit by the end of the week, followed by the hundreds of clients.
The speedy pace will allow a more flexible schedule, but won’t entirely eliminate summit crowding. In the last few days, long lines of climbers have threaded their way amid the seracs between Camp 1 and Camp 2:
Jannu in images
Benjamin Vedrines and Nicolas Jean have settled in at the base of the north face of Jannu. They will only start on the face once they are well acclimatized. They have spent one night at 5,600m and two nights at 6,100m, seizing short breaks in the otherwise rainy weather.
They have also shared some amazing footage. The French team has posted nearly daily updates, including the climbers’ thoughts, photos, and some stunning videos.
Everest
With the Khumbu Icefall already fixed, Andrzej Bargiel is acclimatizing and studying Everest’s South Side for the best possible ski line from the summit.
The Asian Trekking team celebrated their puja ceremony on Monday, although client Tyler Andrews of the U.S. is still running up and down Mera Peak for acclimatization.
Makalu
Denis Aleksenko of Russia and Artem Tsentsevitsky of Belarus have completed the approach trek to Makalu Base Camp. They should be on their way to Advanced Base Camp today.
The team is posting updates on Telegram.
Makalu from the lower Base Camp. Photo: Russian-Belarussian team
Dhaulagiri
Some teams, delayed by the riots last week, are trekking to Base Camp and will reach it in a few days. Others, including Russian skiers Valeri Lazo and Anton Pugovkin, are already there. For the skiers, this is the latest effort in their Deathzone Freeride project. The pair climbed Everest in 2023 but couldn’t complete a ski descent as planned. At least one Seven Summit Treks team is already fixing the route.
