On June 15, two climbers established a difficult new route on the rarely climbed 6,070m Huandoy East in Peru.
Diomedes Mojica of Panama and Wilder Alva Chinchay of Peru climbed via the northeast face and graded their new route 480m, MD+, 75º-90º ice, M4-M5 mixed climbing, UIAA 5+.
Mojica and Chinchay called their new route on Huaydon East ‘Sudor Peruano’ (Peruvian Sweat). The ascent line is marked in red, the descent line in blue. Photo: Diomedes Mojica
The duo climbed in alpine style over 18 hours (11 hours up, and seven hours down).
Huandoy East is highly technical, steep, and dangerous, and even experienced climbers almost never attempt it. This is the first ascent of Huandoy East by a Panamanian and marks Chinchay as the first person to summit all four Huandoy peaks (North, South, East, and West).
Mojica and Chinchay at their Huandoy Base Camp. Photo: Diomedes Mojica
World’s highest tropical range
Huandoy lies in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca, the world’s highest tropical mountain range. Its highest peak, Huandoy North, reaches 6,395m and is the second-highest in the range after 6,757m Huascaran. The Huandoy massif lies near the Llanganuco Valley and its lakes, with views of other big peaks like Huascaran and Chopicalqui.
Huandoy is a tough climb due to its steep ice, glaciers, and complex ridges. It’s popular with experienced mountaineers who use their ice-climbing and high-altitude skills.
Huandoy, also called Tullparaju in Quechua, may come from local words meaning snowy fireplace.
Erwin Schneider and Erwin Hein from the German Alpine Club first ascended Huandoy North via its south side on Sept. 12, 1932.
Wilder Alva Chinchay, left, and Diomedes Mojica on Huandoy East. Photo: Diomedes Mojica
Diomedes Mojica, 31, is a student at Centro de Estudios de Alta Montana and an aspiring UIAGM mountain guide. On June 3, one week before Huandoy East, he summited Huascaran via a new route. His recent climb of Huandoy East establishes a new milestone for Panamanian mountaineering.
Wilder Alva Chinchay is also training as a UIAGM mountain guide. He is experienced on the Cordillera Blanca’s high-altitude technical routes.
Sunrise from the summit of Huandoy East. Photo: Diomedes Mojica
