New Route on Southwest Face of Latok II

On August 18, Catalan climbers Miquel Mas and Marc Subirana opened a new route on the southwest face of Latok II, in the Panmah Muztagh, Central Karakoram, Pakistan. Their new line ends on a foresummit of Latok II, at about 6,400m.

According to Carlos Garranzo from the climbers’ home team, this is the first time that anyone has climbed the peak from the southwest.

A new route and the first ascent of Latok II from the southwest.

A new route and the first ascent of Latok II from the southwest. Photo: Carlos Garranzo


Two years in the making

Two years ago, Subirana and Mas observed some photos that showed Latok II had a foresummit at about 6,400m that was well separated from the main summit. To get there they’d need to climb a 1,000m+ wall.

In 2022, they scouted the line and then made a first attempt, but were unable to finish because of a lack of time. This summer they finally knocked it off, finishing in 14 hours and opening six new pitches to top out.

They have named the new route “Latok Thumb”. The 1,100m route goes along quite a direct line on the southwest face and has 31 pitches, 7a, A2+, M5. The foresummit is at around 6,400m (6,380m according to their Suunto, and 6,430m according to their Garmin).

Marc Subirana (left) and Miquel Mas.

Marc Subirana (left) and Miquel Mas. Photo: Miquel Mas

Kris Annapurna

KrisAnnapurna is a writer with ExplorersWeb.

Kris has been writing about history and tales in alpinism, news, mountaineering, and news updates in the Himalaya, Karakoram, etc., for the past year with ExplorersWeb. Prior to that, Kris worked as a real estate agent, interpreter, and translator in criminal law. Now based in Madrid, Spain, she was born and raised in Hungary.