Pakistan Alpine Style: No Luck on K7 For Jeff and Priti Wright

Bad weather thwarted Jeff and Priti Wright’s second attempt on K7 Central (6,858m), but the Spaniards on Latok II may be luckier. A three-day weather window has begun, according to forecasts. Sergey Nivol and Dmitry Golovchenko may also use it to push their new route on Gasherbrum IV’s south face.

The Wrights — who were successful on neighboring K6 back in 2000 and retreated just 100 meters below the summit of K7 last year — returned to Skardu yesterday. They have not updated their social media since July 20, but constant bad weather and too much snow gave them no chance to complete the first ascent of K7 Central, Ali Saltoro of Alpine Adventure Guides told ExplorersWeb.

K7 massif, a series of granite spires with vertical faces and ice couloirs separating them.

The K7 massif. Photo: Photo: Jon Griffith


Climbers on Gasherbrum IV and Latok II

Golovchenko and Nilov are in the first stages of their attempt to open a new route on Gasherbrum IV. Earlier this week, they traveled across the Gasherbrum Glacier, marking the route across the icefall. Since then, they have been acclimatizing.

They have not yet climbed high enough to scope out a possible line on the south face. Except for trekking groups and perhaps some unknown small teams, they will be soon the only climbers left in the Karakoram.

Sergey Nilov earlier this week on the Gasherbrum Glacier. Photo: Dmitry Golovchenko


Miquel Mas and Marc Subirana began their new route up Latok II yesterday. During the good weather, they will try to finish what they started last year. We will know more when they return to Base Camp in a couple of days.

the climbers smile with the rocky peak behind them.

File image of Mas and Subirana last year, with Latok II behind them. Photo: Mas/Pumba Productions

Kazuya Hiraide is back home in Japan and shared a photo, below, from the impressive new route that he and Kenro Nakajima opened on the north face of Tirich Mir.

a climber seen from below, heads on hard, vertical ice towards an impressive rocky face.

One of the Japanese climbers on the north face of Tirich Mir last month. Photo: Ishii Sports

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.