This topsy-turvy season, we have more information from alpine-style teams — usually a reticent bunch — than from the 8,000m commercial teams. Possible summits may have occurred on Nanga Parbat, but nothing is confirmed. Hopefully, the flow of news will increase soon, as some K2 and Broad Peak teams have just arrived in Base Camp.
K2
The first big groups have just arrived at K2 Base Camp. That is, if any group can be considered big this summer, when the Karakoram 8,000’ers are unusually quiet because of the India-Pakistan conflict this spring.
Summit Karakoram reports that its first group in Base Camp includes only 12 climbers: a small group from Nepal-based outfitter 8K and a small team from the UK’s Impact Ascents — two climbers, two high-altitude porters from Pakistan, and one Base Camp crew member.
Among the new arrivals is Vibeke Andrea Sefland of Norway, who is aiming for her 9th 8,000m peak. She has posted a nice description of the approach trek on social media, below, and will use a tracker during the expedition so that everyone can follow her progress.
Teams from Seven Summit Treks, Madison Mountaineering, and EliteExped should also be coming, but have not yet arrived. Mingma David Sherpa, hoping to reach the top of K2 for a record 7th time, will lead the EliteExped group.
Mingma David Sherpa is a six-time K2 summiter, including once as a member of the first winter team. Photo: EliteExped
Nanga Parbat
Nowadays on the 8,000m peaks, climbers typically progress at the pace of the rope fixers. However, independent climbers may hurry ahead of them to summit before the crowds.
Yesterday, Pakistani climber Saad Mohammed wrote on X that two unidentified Czech climbers may have reached the summit. The information has not been confirmed. Today, clouds cover the upper sections of the mountain. Mohammed noted that the weather has been cloudy over the last two days, with rain in Base Camp.
At last word, the high-altitude staff have fixed ropes above Camp 2 but have not yet reached the summit. A significant percentage of those attempting Nanga Parbat this summer intend to climb without supplementary oxygen. Most of them have already been to Camp 2, then retreated to Base Camp to rest and wait for better weather.
Horia Colibasanu of Romania plans to climb Nanga Parbat without oxygen or assistance above Base Camp. He is also one of the very few posting photos from the mountain. Photo: Horia Colibasanu
