Poles Aim for a Winter First in the Karakorum: Shipton Spire

The elegant Shipton Spire, in summer. Photo: Marcin Tomaszewski/Facebook

While the Polish National Team still considers whether or not to attempt Winter K2, at least one top expedition from Poland will in the Karakorum this winter. Marcin Tomaszewski, Damian Bielecki, and Pawel Haldas have set their sights on the stunning 5,852m Shipton Spire. Starting in December, they will try to open a new route on its frozen granite slabs.

Damian Bielecki (left) and Pawel Haldas on the North Face of the Eiger last winter. Photo: Pawel Haldas

Marcin Tomaszewski is a big wall-climber with an impressive international resumé. His two partners are also well-seasoned winter climbers, with wide experience in the Tatras Mountains and the Alps. For Bielecki and Haldas, Shipton Spire will be a logical next step after climbing the North Face of the Eiger last winter. Tomaszewski himself climbed that classic wall in winter 2016 with the late Tom Ballard, opening a new route that they called ‘Titanic’.

Tomaszewski has never been to the Karakorum in winter before. But he and Marek Raganowicz opened a new route, the remarkable ‘Bushido’, on the Great Trango Tower in 2013. The 46-pitch route (VII- A4+, UIAA grade: VII+) is considered one of the best big-wall ascents in history. They did this, however, in summer. This time, he and his team are determined to bag what seems to be a winter first on Shipton Spire.

“Someone has yet to climb big-wall style in the Karakorum in winter,” he told ExplorersWeb.

Marcin Tomaszewski at home in Poland last week. Photo: Marcin Tomaszewski

Before heading for Pakistan, the team will train on big walls in the Alps and the Dolomites.

As for the challenge ahead, they know what will it be like. “It’s gonna be cold,” Tomaszewski said. “We’ll fight”.

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About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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F v
1 month ago

Good article, nice to follow their climb

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John Midddendorf
8 days ago

Please keep us updated of this pioneering winter big wall ascent. They have a prototype D4 Delta3p to support them, the lightest 3-person single point portaledge. Pictures of the ledge at bigwalls.net

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