Kim Chang-ho was a South Korean mountaineer who summited the 14×8,000’ers without supplemental oxygen in record time. He pioneered numerous new routes and first ascents on 6,000m and 7,000m peaks. Today, we revisit his most notable climbs.
Early years
Most sources list Kim’s birthday as September 15, 1969, but mountaineering historian Bob A. Schelfhout Aubertijn confirmed that Kim was born on July 13, with confusion arising from the Korean age system.
In 1988, Kim began studying International Trade at the University of Seoul. Inspired by Alexander the Great’s exploits, Kim started climbing with the university’s Alpine Club.
His frequent expeditions delayed his academic progress, and he didn’t earn his Business Administration degree until 2013. Kim viewed his humanities studies as a way to enrich his climbing. He believed that understanding culture and history deepened his connection to the mountains.
By the 1990s, he was already tackling rock-climbing routes up to 5.12. Early expeditions to the Karakoram, including attempts on 6,286m Great Trango in 1993, and 7,925m Gasherbrum IV in 1996, revealed his bold — sometimes reckless — ambition. On Gasherbrum IV, he reached 7,450m but faced a sheer rock face without protection, instructing his partner to release the rope if he fell.
Gasherbrum IV. Photo: Sebastian Alvaro
Exploration of northern Pakistan
Between 2000 and 2004, Kim embarked on solo trips in northern Pakistan’s Karakoram, Hindu Kush, and Pamir ranges, prioritizing discovery over summits. As detailed in the 2023 American Alpine Journal, he surveyed glacial valleys, documented hundreds of unclimbed peaks, and built relationships with local farmers and herders. These solitary treks were driven by a desire to understand the geography, culture, and history of the regions.
Kim’s journals reveal a meticulous approach, with photographs and descriptions of potential routes forming a database that remains a valuable resource for climbers. His interactions with locals shaped his climbing decisions, ensuring cultural sensitivity in his choice of peaks. This period of exploration laid the groundwork for his later ascents, blending adventure with respect for the human and natural contexts of the mountains.
Photo: Kim Chang-ho
Four first ascents of 6,000m peaks
Kim’s explorations in Pakistan led to a series of remarkable solo first ascents in 2003, when he was 33. The American Alpine Journal documents four solo climbs of 6,000m peaks in the Hindu Raj and Karakoram ranges.
He carried out the first ascent of 6,105mm Haiz Kor in the Thui Range of the Hindu Raj, by a challenging route via the southeast face and south ridge through a complex icefall.
Kim also made first ascents of 6,225m Dehli Sang-i-Sar in the Little Pamir, 6,189m Atar Kor in the Hindu Raj, and 6,200m Bakma Brakk in the Masherbrums.
Dehli Sang-i Sar from the southwest, showing the general line of Kim Chang-ho’s solo ascent along the upper east ridge in 2003. Photo: Kim Chang-ho
Mastering 7,000’ers
In 2008, he led the first ascent of 7,762m Batura II, though the expedition’s use of fixed ropes drew criticism, prompting him to refine his lightweight approach.
In 2012, Kim and An Chi-young made the first ascent of 7,092m Himjung in Nepal, climbing via its southwest face. The expedition earned them the Piolet d’Or Asia Award.
In 2016, Kim and two partners opened a new 3,800m alpine route on the south face of 7,455m Gangapurna in Nepal. Described by the 2017 Piolet d’Or committee as “bold and lightweight,” it earned an Honorable Mention, marking a historic recognition for Korean climbers.
During the Gangapurna expedition, Kim and his partners also attempted the south face of unclimbed Gangapurna West, where they reached the summit ridge.
One year after Gangapurna, the tireless Kim led an expedition to Himachal Pradesh in India, aimed at fostering a younger generation of Korean climbers and developing their skills and experience. The team made the second ascent of 6,446m Dharamsura, and climbed 6,451m Papsura via a direct route on the south face.
Choi Seok-mun and Park Joung-yong, climbing partners of Kim Chang-ho, approach the summit of Gangapurna. Photo: Korean Way Project
Summiting 8,000’ers
Kim summited all 14 of the world’s 8,000m peaks without supplemental oxygen, in record time.
Starting in 2006 with the Busan Alpine Federation’s Dynamic Hope Expedition (led by Hong Bo-Sung), Kim and a small team relied on minimal support, avoiding Sherpas and oxygen. Kim studied geography and history to learn more about his routes.
Kim completed the 14×8,000’ers in 7 years, 10 months, and 6 days, setting a record for the fastest completion without oxygen at the time. He surpassed Jerzy Kukuczka’s record by one month.
Kim didn’t set out with the explicit goal of climbing the 8,000’ers so quickly. His pursuit was primarily driven by his passion for mountaineering and a desire to climb these peaks in a pure, lightweight style.
Kim ascended three 8,000m peaks twice: Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I, and Gasherbrum II.
Among his 8,000m climbs, his south-north traverse of Nanga Parbat in 2005 and his sea-to-summit ascent of Everest in 2013 deserve special mention.
The south face of Gangapurna, showing (in red) the Canadian Route (1981), and (yellow) the Korean Way (2016). Photo: Korean Way Project
Nanga Parbat, 2005
In 2005, Kim climbed Nanga Parbat’s massive Rupal Face. The Korean Nanga Parbat Rupal Expedition lasted 109 days. They arrived at Base Camp on April 20 after a heavy snowstorm. Over the next 12 days, the team set up Camp 1 at 5,280m and Camp 2 at 6,090m, following a line close to the 1970 Messner Route.
The weather was brutal, with snow falling daily in May, destroying seven tents and burying Camp 2 under fresh snow. Despite these setbacks, by June 14, after 43 days of effort, the team established Camp 3 at 6,850m. Near the end of June, the team prepared for a summit attempt, and on June 26, Kim and three other climbers started their push. However, at 7,550m on the Merkl Icefield, a rock hit team member Kim Mi-gon in the leg, forcing the group to abort.
Undeterred, Kim and climbing partner Lee Hyun-jo made another attempt on July 13, starting from Camp 4 at 7,125m. They faced constant danger, dodging falling rocks and ice. After a 24-hour climb, they reached the summit of Nanga Parbat.
Kim Chang-ho. Photo: Abbas Ali
A difficult descent
Kim and Lee chose to go down the Diamir Face via the Kinshofer Route, unroped, to save time. In the middle of the descent, they triggered a wind slab avalanche. Lee was buried, and Kim was swept 50m downhill, scraping his face and losing his headlamp. Both managed to free themselves and continued down, exhausted and hallucinating, believing another climber was ahead of them. They reached another expedition’s tents at 7,100m but decided against stopping, fearing they might not wake up if they rested. After an incredible 68 hours from Camp 4, they arrived at the Diamir Base Camp, impressing others with their speed and resilience. Lee appeared remarkably fresh despite the ordeal.
This expedition was a turning point for Kim. The climb was a tactical, siege-style effort, relying on fixed ropes and a larger team, very different from the lightweight, alpine-style climbs he later became known for. During the descent, Lee’s emotional radio call to a teammate at Base Camp, expressing regret that they weren’t together, deeply affected Kim.
Kim reflected on his selfishness, realizing that reaching the summit meant little without returning safely with his team. This experience shaped his philosophy moving forward, which would emphasize teamwork, respect for the mountains, and survival over personal glory.
Views of Everest from neighboring Lhotse. Photo: Kadyr Saydilkan
Everest, 2013: Starting from sea level
Kim’s 2013 Everest ascent was the final step in his quest to climb the 8,000m peaks without supplemental oxygen, making him the first Korean to do so. But his Everest climb was not just about reaching the top; it was a unique adventure.
Kim’s journey to Everest’s summit began far from the mountain itself. He wanted to make the climb special by starting at sea level and traveling to Base Camp without using motorized transport.
On March 20, 2013, he began his expedition from Sagar Island near Kolkata, India. From there, he kayaked 156km on the River Ganges, cycled 893km through northern India to Tumlingtar in Nepal, and then trekked 162km to Everest Base Camp. This sea-to-summit approach was rare and challenging, inspired by earlier climbers like Tim Macartney-Snape and Goran Kropp, but Kim added a twist by kayaking part of the way.
Once at Everest Base Camp, Kim prepared to climb the mountain via the standard Southeast Ridge route from the Nepal side without oxygen. He moved steadily up the mountain, navigating the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, and the steep slopes leading to the South Col. On May 20, Kim reached the summit.
Sadly, Kim’s climbing partner, Seo Sung-ho, died during the descent. This loss cast a shadow over the triumph, but Kim’s accomplishment remained a mountaineering landmark.
Kim Chang-ho and his team near the Sara Umga La at 5,020m, west of Dharamsura and Pasura peaks, in 2017. Photo: Korean Way Project
Mountaineering philosophy
Kim’s mountaineering philosophy viewed climbing as a means of learning and coexistence, not conquest. He avoided treating peaks as mere challenges, instead choosing routes with historical or cultural significance. After losing his partner Seo Sung-ho on Everest in 2013, Kim founded the Korean Himalayan Fund to support young climbers in creative ascents. His database, preserved by his wife Kim Youn-kyoung, includes detailed notes on geography and local names.
Kim’s death
Kim’s life ended on October 11, 2018, when a snowstorm, possibly triggered by a serac collapse, destroyed his team’s Base Camp beneath 7,193m Gurja Himal, located south of Dhaulagiri VI, in Nepal. The Korean Way Project expedition, aiming for a new route on the south face, included five South Korean climbers and four Nepali guides, all of whom perished.
Kim’s journal, ending on October 10, suggests the tragedy struck overnight. By the time of his death, he was recognized as South Korea’s most accomplished climber. Kim was 49 years old.
His legacy endures through his database, the Korean Himalayan Fund, climbers like Oh Young-hoon who carry forward his vision, Kim’s daughter (Danah, born in 2016), his wife, and through the international mountaineering community, who preserve his memory.
Kim Chang-ho. Photo: En.namu.wiki
