The Sherpa rope-fixing team summited Lhotse today and expects to summit Everest shortly.
Pasang Tenje Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa, Migma Dorjee Sherpa, Ming Dawa Sherpa, and Pas Rinzi Sherpa stood on top of 8,512m Lhotse at 5:40 pm Nepal time. Meanwhile, a second group of Sherpas is advancing toward the summit of 8,849m Everest. Earlier, outfitter 8K Expeditions said they will top out within the next three hours. That’s around the time this story is posted.
Summits in the night
By now, it is completely dark on the mountain. However, in recent years, Sherpa teams often continue until very late to summit. The long summit days and nights are acceptable as long as the weather remains stable and the Sherpa staff has plenty of supplementary oxygen.
Their priority is to open the route all the way as soon as possible, so other climbers can follow. This year, the 8K Expeditions team succeeded well within expectations. Earlier this week, they set off from Base Camp and planned to reach the top between today and Saturday.
The 2025 Everest rope-fixing team. Photo: 8K Expeditions
After summiting, the climbers will be able to rest in Camp 4, if necessary, then return to Base Camp the following day. For most of them, their work is far from over. Many will climb Everest again in the days ahead, supporting clients.
Summit wave next?
If the weather holds, some foreign climbers may already be on their way to the top. Other expeditions will prefer to wait until the first summit frenzy ends and the crowds taper off. After all, it is only May 8. Everest usually offers other summit windows in the middle of May and especially around May 23-25, when the weather stabilizes before the monsoon.
The Indian Army team near Camp 2 on Everest. Photo: Kami Rita Sherpa
However, climbers heading for the summit may merge with others rotating just to Camp 4 at 7,950m on the South Col. This may lead to crowds on the Lhotse Face.
A line of climbers near Camp 4 on Everest. Photo: Furtenbach Adventures
The Expedition Operators Association of Nepal assigns the rope fixing on Everest and Lhotse, as well as on Manaslu and Ama Dablam. On other mountains, teams do it the old-fashioned way, by working out an agreement and collaborating.
