Second Tries on Makalu, Nuptse, and Everest

If at first you don’t succeed on a Himalayan 8,000’er, try again next season, or next week. Here are some first failures who have recently succeeded, or are about to try again.

Back on Makalu

Carla Perez is in Base Camp ready to give Makalu a second try after the cold foiled her previous no-O2 attempt. Also ready for a last-minute try is Jackson Groves, who was not part of the STT team that summited some days ago.

Groves was recently airlifted out with sinusitis and a gum infection.

“I had a quick double root-canal surgery and grabbed a bunch of medication before flying back to Lukla,” he explained. “Then I waited nine long days in a tea house before getting the first available helicopter back to Base Camp, but now I’m back! Well behind schedule, but still soldiering on and ready to give it a crack.”

Groves will climb without a team but will surely share his push with other last-chance climbers. He mentioned a possible attempt “in a few days”.

Jackson Groves on Makalu. Photo: Jackson Groves

 

Not 2nd try but maybe last chance

Jon Gupta is also on his way to Makalu with one of the clients he led up Kangchenjunga last week. Gupta aims to summit on May 20. Makalu would cap off a wonderful season. Gupta is still on a high after Kangchenjunga.

“It felt quiet, remote, almost private in some ways,” he told ExplorersWeb. “It’s a big mountain, but never overly technical or difficult. The individual days are enjoyable…only the summit day is very [long].”

The UK guide took five clients to the summit on May 12. After Makalu, however, Jon Gupta is still determined to stop guiding in the Himalaya, at least for a while. He still plans to enroll in the IFMGA program, which will occupy him for the next three to four years.

Another go at Nuptse

On the first try, Tim Mosedale missed the main summit of Nuptse, but he hasn’t given up. His two clients reached Camp 2 yesterday but they were very tired and decided to retreat. Even that didn’t deter him.

“After a lot of hemming and hawing, Dawa Tenzing Sherpa and I have decided to give Nuptse one last go,” Mosedale wrote yesterday.

The British guide admits that it won’t be easy. “We will need to break trail [again],” he says, “and undoubtedly sections of rope will need to be freed from the snow and ice. However, we have all night and all day, and there’s no rush. [We’re now] just trying to conserve energy and make our limited water and snacks last as long as possible.”

Their plan was to get to Camp 3 today, then after some rest, push for the summit. But according to Mosedale’s tracker, he’s still in Camp 2. It is likely that the pair has postponed their attempt for a day.

Last point registered on Tim Mosedale’s tracker today.

Everest post-COVID

Remember Steve Davis? He had his 15 minutes of fame during the 2021 Everest season for the worst reasons. He was one of the first climbers to be evacuated with COVID, during the Base Camp outbreak that most outfitters and authorities pretended didn’t exist. In the end, the nonexistent outbreak laid low a good number of climbers. Some ended up in the hospital, some returned to the mountain, and some expeditions called off their climbs altogether.

COVID ended Davis’ 2021 try, but he recovered in time for Ama Dablam in November. This year, he returned to Everest again with Elite Exped. This time, he reached the summit.

Steve Davis on top of Everest on May 15. Photo: Steve Davis/Instagram

“Around 6 am on May 15, I stood on top of the world,” the UK-born and current U.S. resident confirmed on social media.

Davis had good weather but some crowding on the way to the top, as he showed in an Instagram story post, below.

From Steve Davis’s Instagram stories.

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with ExplorersWeb.com.

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

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NuptseClients
NuptseClients
1 month ago

To clarify re Nuptse, Tim’s single minded pursuit of his own agenda of completing the Triple Crown has resulted in a failure of his obligations to his clients, which ultimately led to our decision to leave the expedition. Under the direction of our leader (and against the advice of our climbing Sirdar) an inordinate amount of time (10 days) was spent at camp 2 and above (6,400m). As anyone will appreciate this is detrimental to any mountaineer’s health. Upon reaching our high point at around 7,810m it became clear that not enough rope/gear was available to reach the true summit… Read more »

jajo_majo
jajo_majo
1 month ago
Reply to  NuptseClients

give us some details.

Ewa
Ewa
1 month ago
Reply to  NuptseClients

Can we wait until Tim gets off that mountain to hear his side of the story?

Massifattack
Massifattack
1 month ago

I thought that Nims has just posted that he did a no O’s accent?

JPH
JPH
1 month ago
Reply to  Massifattack

Lmao that’s was my question too. He wrote Everest Lhotse (no O2).

Himalayawannabe
Himalayawannabe
1 month ago
Reply to  JPH

I think it’s probably a sherpa with Nims team. Looking at Nims IG there’s a sherpa (not sure who) wearing the same downsuit but slightly different boots with more yellow like in the picture above. But if someone can confirm that it is Nims that would certainly be interesting…

Massifattack
Massifattack
1 month ago

Those are Scarpa boots there is no yellow on them, they’re what he wears. None of the Elite Exped Sherpas wear Thrudark down suits, it’s the same one he wore on Kanchenjunga and in every other IG post.

Himalayawannabe
Himalayawannabe
1 month ago
Reply to  Massifattack

Look at the pictures from south col on his IG from 4 days days ago. The guy standing to the left of him in the second picture.

do you research before you post
do you research before you post
1 month ago
Reply to  Massifattack

Mingma David has been wearing the thrudark down suit on the mountains for a while.

fred west
fred west
1 month ago

Did Jon Gupta turn back 100 meters from the summit on Makalu ??