The jet stream has finally moved on from the Himalaya, resulting in a flurry of summits. Fixed ropes have been completed on both the Nepalese and Tibetan sides of Everest, and the weather on both Kanchenjunga and Shishapangma is clearing.
Thanks to these improved conditions, a number of commercial expeditions have reached the summits of Lhotse and Everest over the last few days, with more to come. Kanchenjunga and Dhaulagiri bids are also underway, but changeable weather could slow their progress. Let’s recap the major summits so far:
First 8,000m peak of the Season
Mingma G Sherpa and the Lhotse summit team. Photo: Mingma G Sherpa
A team from Imagine Treks and Expeditions, led by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, had the honour of bagging the first 8,000m peak of the season. Four Sherpas and two clients made it to Lhotse’s 8,516m summit on April 29.
Ropes Fixed on Everest
Sherpa climbing between Camps 1 and 2 on Everest. Photo: Matador Network
The first summits on both the Nepalese and Tibetan sides of Everest were completed by teams of Sherpa working to prepare the fixed ropes. A team of eight climbing Sherpas topped out from the Nepal side on May 13, while a second team arrived via Tibet on May 14.
Steve Plain: 7 Summits in Record Time
Steve Plain completed his 7 summits challenge in just 117 days. Photo: Steve Plain
In the early morning of May 14, Australian Steve Plain arrived at the summit of Everest along with Jon Gupta and Pemba Sherpa. For Plain, Everest marked the last of his Seven Summits quest. He completed all seven in just 117 days, easily breaking the previous record of 126 days set by Polish climber Janusz Kochanski.
Double Amputee Xia Boyu Summits Everest
Xia Boyu has reached the summit of Everest on his sixth attempt. Photo: Everest Today
Xia Boyu returned to Everest for his sixth crack at the summit, 43 years after his first had led to the amputation of both feet. The 70-year-old double amputee was nearly unable to climb due to controversial new Nepalese regulations introduced last fall prohibiting double amputees, solo climbers and the blind from climbing Everest. The regulations were eventually revoked and Xia Boyu reached the summit on March 14 with a team from Imagine Treks and Expeditions.
Oldest Climber Scales Lhotse
Matsumoto Tatsuo. Photo: Rishi Bhandari
On May 15, Japanese climber Matsumoto Tatsuo became the oldest person to scale Lhotse. The 79-year-old reached the summit as part of a 14-member expedition run by Satori Adventures and led by Canadian climber Jette Caroline.
