Summit Pushes on Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat

A second wave of climbers is between Camp 2 and Camp 3, moving to the summit of Nanga Parbat. Meanwhile, on Broad Peak, Furtenbach Adventures has chosen an early-bird strategy. Their team, guided by Argentina’s Ulises Corbalan, reached the mountain before everyone else. They fixed the ropes themselves and now are ready to go for the top once the weather allows.

Hard terrain on Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat climbers are reporting sections of hard ice and a sustainably steep climb. A rock struck skier Ali Olszanski yesterday. He retreated to Base Camp but still hopes to launch a fresh attempt soon, the Alpymon blog reported.

A significant number of climbers are in Camp 3, ready to set off for the top tonight. This year, there is no Camp 4, but a higher percentage of clients are using supplementary O2 and so are able to tackle a longer summit day. As on all “lower” 8,000’ers, the widespread use of supplementary oxygen on 8,126m Nanga Parbat is quite recent.

Imagine Nepal and EliteExped teams are once again climbing at the same pace, with their members in Camp 2.

Harila with O2 masc and headlamp, on the snow-covered route in the night.

The first summit push earlier this week, with Kristin Harila in the foreground. Photo: Kristin Harila/Facebook


Broad Peak for just one team

On Broad Peak, the Furtenbach Adventures team has set their camps and fixed ropes up to the col at 7,800m. Climbers are preparing to set off toward higher camps and attempt to summit from Camp 3 sometime next week, once the weather cooperates.

The guides and high-altitude porters will fix ropes on the ridge sections as they proceed to the top. Crowding will not be a problem. They are currently the only team positioned for a summit push. Many other climbers are currently on the way, and some of them, such as a Czech expedition, plan to reach Base Camp tomorrow. They are not acclimatized enough to consider summiting yet.

The tents of Base Camp are tiny on the inmense glaicer, as seen from above.

Base Camp from higher up Broad Peak. Photo: Furtenbach Adventures


K2’s Base Camp is also filling up quickly, and the rope fixing has started. Summit Karakoram/8K Expeditions have already roped the way to Camp 1.

Tents set very close to each other on a narrow outcrop on K2, with a landscape of glacieres and jagged peaks.

Camp 1 on K2. Photo: Summit Karakoram/8K

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.