Summit Pushes on Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri, and Manaslu

Climbers are ready for their summit push on 8,586m Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world.

Good weather has allowed Alpenglow’s team to progress swiftly. “We fixed ropes up to C4, moved oxygen to the higher camps, and are acclimatizing,” Topo Mena reported. “The time is right for a summit attempt.”

A lonely climber on mist-covered Kangchenjunga. Photo: Topo Mena


They are ready, but their permit is good until the end of October, so no hurry. They will wait for the proper weather window. Mena didn’t suggest a specific day when the push would start.

Alpenglow’s team on Kangchenjunga. Their only client sits second from left. Photo: Carla Perez

Manaslu: More climbers on the move

On Manaslu, waves of climbers continue to push upward. Some teams, such as Climbing the 7 Summits, are leaving Camp 4 tonight. Several others left Base Camp for Camp 1 today, hoping to summit within three days.

Among them is the no-O2 team of Anna Tybor of Poland and her fellow skiers, Frederico Secchi and Marco Majori, who hope to ski down from the summit. Roman Abildaev of Russia summited today without supplementary O2. He started his climb with Valeria Mercurjeva, but we don’t know yet whether she summited.

Anna Tybor hopes to climb and ski down Manaslu without supplementary O2. Photo: Tashi Lakpa Sherpa


As discussed in an earlier story, we don’t know yet whether climbers reached the highest point of Manaslu or one of its slightly lower foresummits. We’re waiting for more information and pictures from Mingma G. He announced that his team had reached “the real summit of Manaslu” earlier today.

Dhaulagiri: Watch out for the “true” summit as well

A rope-fixing team by Seven Summit Treks has set off to finish fixing ropes to the summit. Pakistan’s Sirbaz Khan is with them. Climbers should follow right behind, although bad weather has delayed some plans, including that of Carlos Soria. The 82-year-old had planned to summit on September 29, but an unexpected storm has kept him and others in BC. According to Soria, the deep, humid valleys make it impossible to predict developing storms in that area.

Carlos Soria, determined to summit Dhaulagiri for once. Photo: LM Soriano


Like Manaslu, Dhaulagiri also has a “tricky” summit. Good knowledge of the route is necessary, especially on the upper sections. As Ralf Dujmovits points out in our Dhaulagiri Climber’s Guide, you need to pick the right couloir to access the summit ridge, then find the highest point.

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

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8 months ago

Angela β€” normally you do such a good job to hold climbers accountable. There are no official rules in climbing β€” who are we to dictate how someone chooses to climb, but honesty is important. You ask a lot of questions of climbers on Manaslu but days after Stefi Troquets summit you interviewed her and you didnt even ask her about the true summit. She continues to count it on her instagram and has never addressed it….

8 months ago

Angela, Anna’s fellow skiers are Frederico Secchi and Marco Majori and NOT Martin Ramos and Jorge Egocheaga…😊

Jerry Kobalenko
8 months ago
Reply to  Apy

Thank you, corrected.