Several teams summited Gasherbrum I on Sunday from 11 am local time. Some climbers reached the top without supplementary oxygen, as this peak has traditionally been climbed, while others used bottled gas.
According to reports, 8K Expeditions placed Pavlo Sydorenko of Ukraine and Magdalena Arcimowicz of Poland on top, supported by Migma Dorchi Sherpa and Pem Lakpa Sherpa. The Nepalese climbers did not use supplementary oxygen.
Seven Summit Treks reported that Marco Confortola of Italy summited without supplementary oxygen, but was supported by Pasang Ngima Sherpa and Lakpa Tashi.
Two climbers outfitted by Active Adventure Holidays summited without supplementary oxygen: Marie Saame of Estonia and Abid Baig from Hunza, Pakistan. Baig summited Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak last year.
Imagine Nepal also reported summits, including Sashko Kedev, who has become the first Macedonian climber to complete the 14×8,000’ers. Wang Zhong of China and Nepalese climbers Dawa Gyalje Sherpa and Ngima Nuru Sherpa also topped out.
Gasherbrum I (8,080m), also known as Hidden Peak, is the first Karakoram 8,000’er summited this year. The teams in place may attempt Gasherbrum II next.
K2’s somber face
On K2 and Broad Peak, bad conditions have stopped any progress by the rope-fixing teams. Expedition leaders are starting to show some concern about the lack of remaining time and possible weather windows.
Last Friday, an avalanche hit a team of four climbers who were descending from Camp 2, killing one of them. Rescue teams could not save Iftekhair Hussain Sadpara, an experienced local climber who had previously summited K2 twice, Broad Peak, and Gasherbrum II. He leaves a wife, two daughters, and a son, Ali Saltoro of Alpine Adventure Guides Pakistan told ExplorersWeb.
Trango Towers
Conditions this year may be better at lower altitudes, such as on the rocky spires of the Karakoram. An Indonesian team will try their luck on Trango’s Nameless Tower (6,239m). The six-member team, led by Iqbal Kamal Fasya, will climb the Eternal Flame route to celebrate the 80th anniversary of Indonesia’s independence. They will reach Base Camp today.
The Indonesian team prior to departure in Skardu, with some local supporters. Photo: Alpine Adventure Guides Pakistan
