Summits on Makalu, Dhaulagiri, and Kangchenjunga

There’s summit news from three of Nepal’s 8,000’ers. Several climbers have succeeded without supplementary oxygen.

Makalu

So far, Piotr Krzyzowski of Poland is the only climber among today’s summiters who has not used bottled oxygen. Seven Summit Treks has posted a list of 12 other summiters, all with O2 and Sherpa support.

Saulius Damulevicius of Lithuania has summited as well, but it is not clear whether he eventually decided to use oxygen or not. He is currently on the way down from what he describes as an extremely tough climb.

The summit wave started yesterday, in which five Sherpa siblings reached the top: Ang Dawa Sherpa, Muktu Lakpa Sherpa, Ngima Dorchi Sherpa, Pechhumbe Sherpa, and Pasang Yangi Sherpa. Muktu’s daughter, Anima Sherpa, summited today with an 8K Expeditions team, together with Iryana Karagan of Ukraine and Patrick Francois J. Mendriks of Belgium.

Dhaulagiri

On Dhaulagiri, two Seven Summit Treks teams reached the top today. Chung-Han Lu of Taiwan, Anja Blancha of Germany, and Sajid Sadpara of Pakistan, used no supplementary oxygen.

Summits were expected yesterday, but teams briefly postponed their final push and remained in Camp 3 because of tough weather conditions. Finally, the Sherpa guides advanced to the end of the ropes (previously fixed to 8,050m) and led their clients to the summit. In all, six international clients and seven Sherpas succeeded.

Expedition leader Lakpa Sherpa posted the first summit pictures moments ago:

Kangchenjunga

Only a small group of climbers summited Kangchenjunga today, out of the nearly 70 foreigners and an equal number of locals on the mountain. Today’s summiters, outfitted by Seven Summit Treks, had to fix ropes on the last 180 vertical meters.

Elite Exped had fixed the ropes on the upper slopes of the route until 8,400m on a previous attempt. There, bad weather forced them to turn around. Today’s Sherpa climbers had to fix the remainder as they climbed; hence the late summit time — 2:15 pm Nepal Time.

 

portrait of climber in a red helmet

File image of Uta Ibrahimi. Photo: Instagram

 

Among today’s summiters is Uta Ibrahimi, who thus completed her 14×8,000m list. Check the complete list here:

Elite Exped told ExplorersWeb they will be ready to launch another summit attempt in three days.

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides graduated university in journalism and specializes in high-altitude mountaineering and expedition news. She has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of local and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporations, press manager and communication executive, and a published author.