Drifter’s Escape: The World’s Hardest Trad Climb documents climber Connor Herson’s attempts at a first ascent of Drifter’s Escape. At a proposed 5.15a, this may be the most difficult trad climb ever completed.
The film doesn’t open on the now-famous line. Instead, it introduces us to Connor and his father, Jim, as they climb the ironically titled Daddy Issues line in Yosemite on Father’s Day. He grew up climbing with his father, who recounts the moment he realized his son had surpassed him to become the promising new talent in trad climbing.
ExplorersWeb reported on Herson’s success on Drifter’s Escape, which confirmed his status as a new climber to watch out for. But the Connor on film is from before all that. The line is only a project.
The recognizable ‘white shield’ marks Drifter’s Escape. Photo: Screenshot
A few weeks after becoming interested in the line, Herson invited his friend Ethan Salvo to work on it with him. Salvo brings an almost punk, surfer sensibility that contrasts with Herson’s Boy Scout energy; the partnership seems promising.
Line, in this case, is extremely literal. The rock face is steep and flat, interrupted only by a few thin, vertical cracks. Herson walks us, hold by hold, through the trio of cruxes which make up the line. After a summer of work and investigation, Connor spent the winter training his strength, having realized he wasn’t strong enough for the line. The next summer, he and Salvo return.
The moment before Connor drops, marking yet another unsuccessful attempt. Photo: Screenshot
Sending
He’s got all the individual moves now, but he says there isn’t a single one of them that he feels sure of making every time. Now the real challenge is linking them together. We are treated to a compilation of slips, misses, and falls.
We watch Connor begin yet another attempt. Storm clouds are rolling in, and conditions could turn bad on a dime. The wind begins to pick up as he reaches the narrow ledge of the first rest. As Salvo calls out encouragement, Connor silently pulls himself upward.
Photo: Screenshot
When he makes it over the ledge, sending Drifter’s Escape for the first time, he stands, still silent, for several seconds before news of his own success seems to reach him. He celebrates, and another Connor speaks to the camera about his success. It is, he affirms, the hardest pitch he’s ever climbed, and the runner-ups are far behind.
“Nothing really comes close.”
