Alex Txikon’s team has returned to Base Camp after a first rotation in which the climbers set up three altitude camps and reached 6,400m.
Txikon, Chhepal, Ang Gyalu, Passan Nurbu, Magkpa, Mig Temba, Lakpa, Pemba, and Mattia Conte set off up the normal route right after reaching Base Camp. They spent a frosty Christmas between Camp 1 and Camp 2.
Yesterday, they climbed again, loaded with 1,200m of ropes and tents that they deposited at Camp 3, at 6,400m. The team had to deal with some strong gusts of wind, they noted.
“We didn’t have a clear goal, other than climbing and working on the route as much as the mountain allowed,” Txikon said after returning to Base Camp at 4,200m. The Basque climber also mentioned that they pitched Camp 2 at 5,600m on Dec. 25.
Txikon noted that he is not very happy with the camp’s location on a slope. “I feel uneasy about it,” he admitted. He didn’t mention if he intends to move the tents.
The team will now rest briefly, then head up again as soon as they can before the good weather changes.