Winter Manaslu: Early Progress, Then Bad Weather

While triumph and tragedy pile up around K2, Simone Moro and Alex Txikon’s team have enjoyed relatively calm on Manaslu. Great weather allowed the climbers to set up Camp 1 at 5,800m, shuttle up several loads of gear for the route beyond, and fix ropes to 6,200m. Last Saturday, however, the dramatic events on K2 and a sudden worsening in the weather broke their industrious isolation.

Txikon was leading the work above Camp 1, with Moro in Base Camp, when news broke of Sergi Mingote’s fatal accident. “I was frozen; I ordered all of us down to BC out of respect,” Txikon said. “Obviously, those of us who devoted to mountaineering are aware of the many risks, but one is never prepared to receive such blows.”

Txikon himself had attempted winter K2 in 2018-19 and despite the somber mood, he was happy for the Nepali team that reached the summit. “For years, they have been the ones who have helped us achieve our dreams,” Txikon said. “This time, they have been the protagonists of their own history.”

Two days ago, Simone Moro shared similar thoughts.

The current bad weather is expected to improve tomorrow. Photo: Phelipe Eizaguirre

 

Currently, they are experiencing real winter on Manaslu for the first time since they arrived. Happily, the forecast shows blue skies returning on Thursday.

Besides Txikon and Moro, the climbing team includes Chhepal Sherpa and Kalden Sherpa. Some of the people currently in Base Camp, as well as the expedition photographer, may also climb part of the route. Details are also expected on whether Cheppal and Kalden will use O2 on the climb.

Nepali guides Vinayat Jay Malla and Tenji Sherpa have also joined Moro and Txikon’s team. Originally, they had planned an alpine-style ascent of the mountain on their own, but they changed their mind. According to El Correo journalist Fernando J. Perez, who is embedded with the expedition, Malla and Tenji Sherpa have already helped with the fixing on Manaslu.

Angela Benavides is a journalist specialised on high-altitude mountaineer and expedition news working with ExplorersWeb.com.

Angela Benavides has been writing about climbing and mountaineering, adventure and outdoor sports for 20+ years.

Prior to that, Angela Benavides spent time at/worked at a number of national and international media. She is also experienced in outdoor-sport consultancy for sponsoring corporates, press manager and communication executive, radio reporter and anchorwoman, etc. Experience in Education: Researcher at Spain’s National University for Distance Learning on the European Commission-funded ECO Learning Project; experience in teaching ELE (Spanish as a Second Language) and transcultural training for expats living in Spain.

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Jay
Jay
1 year ago

Fly Nirmal Purja in. They’ll be on the summit in 48 hours

jmaf
jmaf
1 year ago
Reply to  Jay

Nims could start chasing the winter 8k’s! He may succeed as well!

Not a winter climber
Not a winter climber
1 year ago
Reply to  jmaf

Genius! I wonder if he’ll set that as his next goal?! That would superhuman.

Jason
Jason
1 year ago
Reply to  Jay

I was kind of thinking the same thing…

With_or_Without_02
With_or_Without_02
1 year ago

“Nepali guides Vinayat Jay Malla and Tenji Sherpa have also joined Moro and Txikon’s team. Originally, they had planned an alpine-style ascent of the mountain on their own, but they changed their mind.”
Elite expedition (which I believe is the employer of the two Nepalese climbers) just stated on their IG that these two climbers are planning to climb the mountain alpine style without 02.