The much awaited winter Nanga Parbat season has kicked off.
Earlier this year, as the winter 2014/15 season was nearing its conclusion, a team almost made the first winter ascent of the mountain. Nevertheless, the mountain is still unclimbed and the “cold race” resumes. Five teams will be competing against harsh temperatures, perilous ice and snow, brutal winds, the roller coaster of avalanches and the ever-changing conditions of Nanga Parbat to reach the 8126m summit.
Nanga Parbat 2016 teams consist of the finest, the most experienced and the strongest crop of current winter climbers. Can they pull it off this time? To know, we will have to wait – it may be just a couple of weeks if someone dashes to the summit, or three months (the entire length of winter season) of endurance and struggle.
All the teams have now concluded the pre-expedition acclimatization and are on the way to mountain.
Nanga Dream
The only team on Rupal side has already reached Base Camp. After two weeks on Rakaposhi, the group arrived at Latabo BC last week. They made a couple of trips to ABC but didn’t start the ascent to C1 until today.
“We are preparing to start hard with first day of winter inshallah. So far we have ABC set up today at 4100m (Diamir BC is at 4200m) and we are not moving above due to unwritten rules of “pure winter ascent”. So resting and enjoying good weather.” Marek Klonowski wrote last week.
Nanga Light Team
Elisabeth Revol, Tomek Mackiewicz and Arsalan Ahmed departed for mountains, last week. The trio, apparently, acclimatized in Astore valley before heading to Diamir BC. “Back in Astore after spending 3 nights in a deserted hut at around 3800m in Rama. Moving to base camp in few days.” The team updated a while ago.
International Team
Alex Txikon and Daniele Nardi have completed their acclimatization in South America and are on the way to Pakistan now. The two climbers will be joined by Pakistani mountaineer Ali Sadpara.
During two week stay in Andes, Alex and Daniele reached the summit of mighty Volcan Incahuasi (6638m), which almost equals C3 on Kinshofer route. “In Pakistan, our Nanga Parbat Camp 3 is located approximately 6700m high, almost the same level we reached in the Andes. So, as planned, we are ready to travel to Pakistan and take the first foray onto the mountain, as soon as possible. On Tuesday December 22 we will depart from Bilbao Airport.”
Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech
Adam Bielecki and Jacek Czech have also concluded their acclimatization on Ojos de Salado (6893m) and are ready for a rapid alpine style ascent of Nanga Parbat.
“Finished the first part of journey; everything went according to plan. Namely, we spent a total of 14 nights at an altitude of 4000m or more; 5 nights at 5200m; 2 at 5800m and 3 nights at 6750m. Now the clock is ticking and in my theory, we have three weeks to climb the Nanga Parbat in the alpine style,” Adam Bielecki posted on Facebook this weekend.
Simone and Tamara
“We finally got the permit for our Nanga Parbat climb, what a Christmas gift. After so many unpredictable and shitty events, it is time that finally something works out. We will be the first expedition from Diamir side which got the permit thanks our agency ATP of Mr. Ashraf Aman.” Says Tamara Lunger.
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger reached Pakistan and traveled to Skardu in second week of December.
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