When Connor Herson of the U.S. sent Drifter’s Escape in Squamish, British Columbia, last July, it looked like a hard line. Now that Herson has proposed a grade for the route, we need to change the adjectives. At 5.15a (9a+ in Europe), this could be the hardest trad route ever.
Trad climbing involves routes protected solely by non-permanent gear placed by the climbers, rather than permanent bolts. Herson has an extensive trad resumé in Squamish and Yosemite. However, Drifter’s Escape is his masterpiece, one he worked on for two consecutive summer seasons before finally sending it.
Connor Herson proposed 5.15a (9a+) for this route. Photo: Christian Adam for Black Diamond
Super-thin cracks
The route follows a line of seams (super-thin cracks) located halfway up Squamish Chief, the famous 700m granite monolith often called simply The Chief. There are hundreds of multi-pitch routes up its granite faces, but Herson believes this send is the most difficult and most unique performance he has done in trad climbing, including a mind-blowing crux move — a pogo!
(A pogo is a dynamic, explosive move done by kicking one leg in the air and jumping up with the other leg to reach a distant hold. Check it here.)
‘Drifter’s Escape’ is the hardest line on Squamish Chief and possibly the world. Photo: Christian Adam for Black Diamond
“I didn’t even grade it for a few months after climbing it,” Herson said in a press release shared by sponsor Black Diamond. “The time on this route was remarkably fun and positive…I wouldn’t trade those days for the world.”
Why the late news?
Herson finally decided on the grade of the route, but decided to wait until spring 2026 to make it public for strategic reasons. He hoped to raise media attention before launching a film about the historic send and some other notable ascents he did during the second half of 2025. The four-part series, filmed by Eric Bissell, will be released next month on Black Diamond’s channels under the title Born From the Climbing Life.
Connor Herson shows the gear for ‘Drifter’s Escape.’ Photo: Christian Adam for Black Diamond
Additionally, a director’s cut of the Drifter’s Escape first ascent will be included in the upcoming Mellow Film Tour, launching on Feb. 27 in Boulder, Colorado, and will continue airing in various locations this spring.
