Weekend Warm-Up: Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia

Jeff Lowe on the second ascent of Ama Dablam, 1979. Photo: Tom Frost

Metanoia means a transformative change of heart; a spiritual conversion. Having passed away last weekend at the age of 67, American climber Jeff Lowe has undertaken his own final transformation. He is now on what he might have called his next great adventure.

Released in 2014, the film Metanoia documents his audacious and now legendary solo climb of the North Wall of the Eiger in 1991. For Lowe, then 40 years old, this climb became a turning point. His personal and business life were falling apart. After the climb, he says, “I experienced what I think was an opening up of my consciousness to a true reality, deeper than the one I had known before.”

For the last 18 years, Lowe has suffered from a motor neuron disease, and this is what ultimately took his life last weekend. Lowe dealt with this debilitating condition with grace, humility and humour.

Narrated by author Jon Krakauer, Metanoia charts the life and times of Lowe, warts and all.

Lowe had a lasting impact on mountaineering through both his climbs and his equipment innovation. He was a visionary, an incredibly determined man, the best alpinist of his generation and an inspiration for the next line of brilliant climbers.

Off belay, climb on Jeff Lowe.


About the Author

Ash Routen

Ash Routen

Ash Routen is an outdoor and adventure writer from the UK specialising in adventurous travel and expeditions, such as mountaineering, polar travel, and ocean crossings. Ash juggles a day job as a public health scientist with this second career in outdoor writing.

His words have featured in national newspapers, national and international outdoor and adventure magazines, and various websites. Bylines include Financial Times, Daily Telegraph, Outside Magazine, Rock and Ice, and Red Bull.

Alongside writing, Ash also spends some time undertaking his own adventures, and completed a 640 km foot crossing of a frozen Lake Baikal in 2018. His next arctic journey is a 700 km trek along the coast of Baffin Island in Canada.

Read more at www.ashrouten.com

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I get a message saying the video is unavailable


I also can not watch the video.