Russians Move Slowly Up Jannu

Marcin Tomaszewski watches the progress up Jannu from Base Camp. Photo: Marcin Tomaszewski

Sergey Nilov and Dimitry Golovchenko have reached 6,510m on Mount Jannu, but may face some difficulties in the coming days.

Marcin Tomaszewski withdrew from the climb but has remained in Base Camp and has kept an eye on the pair’s progress. He estimates that the pair have climbed around 400m over four days to reach their current high point.

The headwall above, where the real technical difficulties lie, has been deemed too difficult. Instead, the Russians plan to traverse towards the Southeast Ridge, despite that route’s precarious seracs.

Should Nilov and Golovchenko summit, a return down the Southeast face is unlikely, as the icefall is too difficult and dangerous, according to Tomaszewski.

The weather may improve in a week or so, but currently it remains formidable: “Until the end of the month, the jet stream at 7,000m blows 80 to 112 kph from the northwest,” says Tomaszewski.

About the Author

Ash Routen

Ash Routen

Ash Routen is an outdoor and adventure writer from the UK specialising in adventurous travel and expeditions, such as mountaineering, polar travel, and ocean crossings. Ash juggles a day job as a public health scientist with this second career in outdoor writing.

His words have featured in national newspapers, national and international outdoor and adventure magazines, and various websites. Bylines include Financial Times, Daily Telegraph, Outside Magazine, Rock and Ice, and Red Bull.

Alongside writing, Ash also spends some time undertaking his own adventures, and completed a 640 km foot crossing of a frozen Lake Baikal in 2018. His next arctic journey is a 700 km trek along the coast of Baffin Island in Canada.


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