Russians Move Slowly Up Jannu

Marcin Tomaszewski watches the progress up Jannu from Base Camp. Photo: Marcin Tomaszewski

Sergey Nilov and Dimitry Golovchenko have reached 6,510m on Mount Jannu, but may face some difficulties in the coming days.

Marcin Tomaszewski withdrew from the climb but has remained in Base Camp and has kept an eye on the pair’s progress. He estimates that the pair have climbed around 400m over four days to reach their current high point.

The headwall above, where the real technical difficulties lie, has been deemed too difficult. Instead, the Russians plan to traverse towards the Southeast Ridge, despite that route’s precarious seracs.

Should Nilov and Golovchenko summit, a return down the Southeast face is unlikely, as the icefall is too difficult and dangerous, according to Tomaszewski.

The weather may improve in a week or so, but currently it remains formidable: “Until the end of the month, the jet stream at 7,000m blows 80 to 112 kph from the northwest,” says Tomaszewski.

About the Author

Ash Routen

Ash Routen

Ash is a full-time PhD Exercise Scientist from the UK. Outside of work Ash is an outdoor and adventure writer who has written for Rock and Ice, Outside, Red Bull, The Telegraph, Financial Times, UK Climbing etc. In 2018 he led a 640km foot crossing of a frozen Lake Baikal in Siberia.

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