Jannu: Decision Made, They’re Going Down

Climbing Mountain
The forbidding South Face of Mount Jannu.

After 13 precarious days on 7,710m Mount Jannu, Sergey Nilov and Dimitry Golovchenko have decided to head down, just 400m from the summit.

The short window of good weather is expected to close tomorrow, with more snow and high winds in the forecast. With their food and fuel likely depleted, a summit bid came with great risk.

Yesterday, the pair climbed to 7,300m to access the southern shoulder, just below the final summit block. Today, they began their complex descent. Currently, there’s no news about how the first part of their downclimb went.

The Russians will follow the south ridge toward the southwesterly side of the mountain, following the route of the 1962 first ascent, which takes in the Jeunes and the Yamatari Glaciers. A member of their support team will meet them on the Yamatari Glacier. Together, they will then head down the Gunza Valley to the village of Ghunsa, at 3475m.

The proposed descent route, shown in orange. Photo: www.mountain.ru

Sergey Nilov and a well-bearded Dmitry Golovchenko in Kathmandu. Photo: mountain.ru

About the Author

Ash Routen

Ash Routen

Ash Routen is an outdoor and adventure writer from the UK specialising in adventurous travel and expeditions, such as mountaineering, polar travel, and ocean crossings. Ash juggles a day job as a public health scientist with this second career in outdoor writing.

His words have featured in national newspapers, national and international outdoor and adventure magazines, and various websites. Bylines include Financial Times, Daily Telegraph, Outside Magazine, Rock and Ice, and Red Bull.

Alongside writing, Ash also spends some time undertaking his own adventures, and completed a 640 km foot crossing of a frozen Lake Baikal in 2018. His next arctic journey is a 700 km trek along the coast of Baffin Island in Canada.

Read more at www.ashrouten.com

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