Spring Himalaya, Updated: More Highlights, More Deaths

8000ers Everest Mountain
Elisabeth Revol. Photo: Elisabeth Revol

Despite a continual stream of summits on Everest and other 8000’ers over the past 24 hours, a number of events stand out.

No-02 Everest-Lhotse

Juan Pablo Mohr and David Göttler also headed up Everest without supplementary oxygen earlier this week. Mohr summited on Thursday, then returned to Camp 4. We expect to hear soon about his safe return to Base Camp. Unfortunately, Göttler was caught in the rush hour traffic jam on the mountain’s final sections. He reportedly turned around about 200m shy of the top because he considered it too crowded and therefore too dangerous.

Note that French climber Elisabeth Revol summited Everest and Lhotse, but apparently not without oxygen, contrary to initial reports.

Project Possible Rolls On
Nirmal Purja summited Makalu this morning and has bagged Everest, Lhotse and Makalu within the past 48 hours. Earlier, he climbed Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga, so the former special forces soldier’s ambition to climb all the 8000’ers in seven months continues like a freight train. Purja will take some time off with his family before heading to the Karakorum in early June.

Nirmal Purja. Photo: Nirmal Purja

More Deaths
The death toll on the 8000’ers now stands at 19. Two climbers died on Everest in the past 24 hours. Irishman Kevin Hynes died in his tent at the North Col (7,000 m) in the early hours of this morning. Hynes had reached Camp 3 (8,300m) on Wednesday but decided to go down.

Dhurba Busta. Photo: Dhurba Bista

Nepali mountain guide Dhruba Bista died at Everest Base Camp today, after retreating from Camp 3 with altitude problems. And a Sherpa died on Makalu rescuing two Indian climbers.

Finally, on Makalu today, Nima Tenji Sherpa died somewhere above Camp 2 on the way down from the summit. Cause of death is not known.


About the Author

Ash Routen

Ash Routen

Ash is an outdoor and adventure writer from the UK. He juggles a day job as a public health scientist with a second career in outdoor writing.

His words have featured in national newspapers, international magazines, and various websites. Bylines include Financial Times, Daily Telegraph, Outside Magazine, Rock and Ice, and Red Bull.

Read more at www.ashrouten.com

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4 Comments on "Spring Himalaya, Updated: More Highlights, More Deaths"

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One of the consequences of Nirmal Purja’s feats is that it may change 8000m peak bagging. These peaks now see more mountain tourists than’ hardcore’ alpinists. So, if I were a mountain tourist, why would I spend a decade of my life (and possibly more cash) trying to climb the 14, when I could do it all in a year (financial resources permitting)? The 14 will well and truly go the 7 Summits way. Not saying its a bad or a good thing but this could be the (near) future.


Do it all in a year? You make it sound like any Tom Dick and Harry with cash can climb multiple 8000m peaks in one year.

Heck even with limitless financial resources a normal person would probably die trying to attempt 2 or more 8000m peaks in one year. Even the most seasoned alpinists have difficulty or fail to climb 2 or more 8000m peaks, let alone 6 in one month.

Easy for an armchair commentator to make these types of ignorant comments.

Craig Quigley

Most ridiculous thing I’ve read on here. Completely missed the point.


Nothing like ruining a beautiful mountain all because of your egos. Leaving trash up there and shitting everywhere it’s disgusting.