Updated: How Urubko Nailed His New Route on Gasherbrum II

8000ers Mountain
Denis Urubko is back! Photo: Denis Urubko

“I’m happy with gorgeous new line I’ve called Honey Moon,” Denis Urubko told Anna Piunova of the Russian adventure site, mountain.ru, on his way downvalley from the upper reaches of Gasherbrum II. “I’m tired from 24 hours of continual risk and passion; I’ll come back to life with Pipi [his partner, Maria Cardell].”

Urubko travelled to Pakistan this year to open a new route on Gasherbrum II. Originally, he hoped to climb with partner María Cardell, but she suffered a back injury during the trek up the Baltoro Glacier. Cardell tried to acclimatize on the normal route, but couldn’t get further than Camp 2. In spite of the pain, she remained in Base Camp while Urubko prepared for his new line by summiting the mountain via its normal route on July 18. Sticking to solo, alpine-style climbing rules, he was not supposed to step on the route before the single, definitive summit push.

Urubko’s planned route on Gasherbrum II. Details on whether his actual route deviated are still to come. Photo: Denis Urubko

Urubko hoped to rest up for his big effort, but events on the mountain did not allow. Instead, he lead three different rescues in three days, helped mainly by Don Bowie and (on the last two) by Sergi Mingote.

Back home, some praised a true mountain hero, while others wondered why he sacrificed his own chances by exhausting himself helping others. A Twitter comment from RussianClimb cogently explained the matter: “He has been raised and trained in the old Soviet school of mountaineering –- he helps because this is what you have to do.”

Meanwhile, everyone but Bowie, his climbing partner Lotta Hintsa and Matthew James from Climbing for Casualties had deserted Gasherbrum. Less than a day after he helped rescue a seriously ill porter, Urubko accompanied the threesome to Camp 1 on the glacier, at the foot of 8,035m Gasherbrum II. That day, he turned 46 years old.

Conditions were far from perfect. Slush and open crevasses increased the danger on the glacier, while unstable snow guarded the upper flanks of the peak. Huge avalanches made Bowie, Hintsa and James delay and finally abort their summit bids via the normal route.

Urubko checked conditions on his planned route and decided to go for it. On July 31, at 7pm local time, Urubko set off into the fading light, determined not to stop until he reached the top and returned to meet the group back at Camp 1.

The slushy, crevasse-ridden glacier leading to Gasherbrum II, as seen from Base Camp. Photo: Alex Gavan

What followed was a nerve-wracking silence lasting 42 hours. Urubko left with no satphone or radio, no tracking device and of course, no oxygen. His route was mostly out of sight from Camp 1. The climbers there were only able to spot Urubko on Aug. 1 at noon, somewhere above 7,000m.

Then the day finished, night fell and nothing stirred on Gasherbrum II. Hintsa remarked how dangerous the conditions were: extraordinarily mild temperatures during the night prevented the snow from freezing and thus firming up. Concern grew among the climbing community, although not a single voice expressed it aloud. Urubko is not any other climber, they said. He’s Denis — the one who rescues others, never the one in need.

Finally, James broke the news to his home team in the United States, and they passed the information to ExplorersWeb: “Denis Urubko is back in Camp 1, he summited!”

Details will have to wait, but there is no hurry, now that we know the happy ending. For once, spoilers were more than welcome.

About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Sport journalist, published author and communication consultant. Feeling back home at ExplorersWeb after five years exploring distant professional ranges.

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12 Comments on "Updated: How Urubko Nailed His New Route on Gasherbrum II"

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Mickael
Guest

Hats-off! Curious to have more details. Hope Maria gets better and back on trails soon!

Bulgakov
Guest
All hats off to Denis. It doesn’t get any better, and thanks AB for the updates. I would never question anything about Denis, but I have a question for any who might want to opine. No SAT phone, no GPS. I do appreciate that rescues way up on the 8000ers are futile, if attempted at all. And I appreciate the symbolism. My only thought is if Denis suffers a broken leg 4k out of base 1, it would be right for him to ask for rescue. Again, I salute the dedication of “solo”, but maybe there is something I’m missing,… Read more »
Elad
Guest

In one of his interviews, Dennis explained that he never takes a walkie-talkie because other climbers should not quit their plans to save him and to be sure he can only rely on himself.

Henry
Guest

Do a piece about Urubko, listing all his 8000er summits the men is a legend.

does anyone have the complete list of all his 8000er summits?

Not an Everest climber
Guest
Not an Everest climber

Yes, it’s not hard to find it – https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denis_Urubko

Not an Everest climber
Guest
Not an Everest climber

I really hope Denis has a summit selfie proving it. Hope it doesn’t turn out to be a Ueli Steck saga when he had no proof of summit from his Annapurna South Face and Shishapangma South Face climbs.

Frank Ocean
Guest

Ueli never summitted Shishapangma nor Annapurna via the south faces. No photo, no evidence. I don’t get how people still believe him just because he can solo the Eiger. If I claimed to solo the south face of Annapurna without photos, I’d be ridiculed because I’m a nobody.

Richard
Guest

No offense but there are over 5 articles dedicated to Denis’s single climb in G2, whereas for Nims only one or two articles detailing his exploits especially his nearly impossible K2 summit. The contents of the articles also extols Denis, whereas for Nims the author seeks to cast negative light or doubt the authenticity of Nims ascents.

Not taking anything away from Denis who is one of the mountaineering legends, there seems to be overt bias amongst Explorerweb article contributors with regards to Asian climbers compared to European ones.

Craig Quigley
Guest

You’re talking uttter rubbish. Nims has had plenty of praise on this site. Trying to make an issue, were one doesn’t exist, especially bringing the good old race card out. Think before you type!

Richard
Guest

I’m really sorry if facts hurt. I have screened through all the articles and contents. Take a look for yourself, look at the previous 50 or so articles posted and count how much coverage has been given.
Its easy to accuse me of playing the racr card when I just wanted to point out the differences in coverage.

Not an Everest climber
Guest
Not an Everest climber

There’s always going to be more coverage for someone attempting a new route which is far more exciting.

Alex A
Guest

Here is a real climber, not one of those O2 suckers