Updated: Purja Gets His Permit; Leaves Shortly

Nirmal Purja at Camp 1 on Cho Oyu. Photo: Nirmal Purja

Chinese authorities have officially granted Nirmal Purja a permit to climb Shishapangma (8,013m) this month. The Tibetan peak is currently closed and is the only remaining obstacle in the Nepali’s quest to summit all 14 8000’ers in seven months.

Writing on social media, Purja said: “With a full of mix emotions I feel very humble, thankful and proud today. Finally, my team and I have got the permit to climb Shishapangma.”

Purja and his team will leave for Tibet almost immediately. “We are a strong team and we are very confident [that we will] complete this mission,” he said.

If Purja manages to summit Shishapangma, he will have knocked off over seven years from the previous best times for the 8,000’ers, set by Kim Chang-ho of Korea in 2013 and Jerzy Kukuczka of Poland in 1987.

His torrid 2019 schedule of 8,000’ers:

  1. Annapurna – April 23
  2. Dhaulagiri – May 12
  3. Kanchenjunga – May 15
  4. Lhotse – May 22
  5. Everest – May 22
  6. Makalu – May 24
  7. Nanga Parbat – July 03
  8. Gasherbrum I – July 15
  9. Gasherbrum II – July 18
  10. K2 – July 24
  11. Broad Peak – July 26
  12. Cho Oyu – September 23
  13. Manaslu – September 27

About the Author

Ash Routen

Ash Routen

Ash Routen is an outdoor and adventure writer from the UK specialising in adventurous travel and expeditions, such as mountaineering, polar travel, and ocean crossings. Ash juggles a day job as a public health scientist with this second career in outdoor writing.

His words have featured in national newspapers, national and international outdoor and adventure magazines, and various websites. Bylines include Financial Times, Daily Telegraph, Outside Magazine, Rock and Ice, and Red Bull.

Alongside writing, Ash also spends some time undertaking his own adventures, and completed a 640 km foot crossing of a frozen Lake Baikal in 2018. His next arctic journey is a 700 km trek along the coast of Baffin Island in Canada.

Read more at www.ashrouten.com

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4 Comments on "Updated: Purja Gets His Permit; Leaves Shortly"

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Damien Francois

Good luck! Be safe! Jaya Nirmal Himal!


Horay!! Best wishes to him and The team.


It’ll be an incredible achievement if he succeeds.
But please, don’t compare him to Kukuczka or even Kim Chang-ho. The Pole has done it without the supplementary oxygen, 9 new routes, four winter summits – over 30 years ago!!! I wish Purja all the best, but if he really wants to become the greatest and quickest, maybe he should’ve started his project in September and finish in March next year…