All 10 climbers who summited earlier today have now passed Camp 4 and made it all the way to Camp 3. All are fine and in good health.
According to Seven Summit Treks leader Dawa Sherpa, eight people will stay in C3 for the night, while Sona Sherpa (from SST) and Gelje Sherpa (from Nirmal Purja’s team) will continue through the night, all the way back to Base Camp.
The all-Nepali team reached the summit of K2 for the first time in winter at 5 pm local time. They then made their way back to Camp 3 in dusk and darkness, down the summit slopes, traversing back under the Great Serac, and downclimbing the Bottleneck before reaching C4 and then on to C3.
Weather permitting, they should all reach Base Camp tomorrow. Sadly, their well-deserved celebration will surely be dampened by news of Sergi Mingote’s fatal accident.
About the Author
Angela Benavides
Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!
They are back at Camp III. See Nirmal Purja’s IG.
Question, is this the first expedition attempting K2 in winter using supplementary oxygen?
I can’t find if anyone did it without oxygen.
More like the opposite. Hard to find winter attempts and summits with oxygen. Until recently, it seem it was the domain of the purists. But then again, even though it’s arguably the most important one, oxygen shouldn’t be the only criteria of the style. Did you used fixed ropes and were the ropes fixed by a team on 02 and what about all those new electronic warming gear. How many expeditions turned around because of frostbites. It seems that in order to avoid bitter quarrels, the mountain community will eventually have to set guides to define which style is what.… Read more »
Actually I think it’s not hard to draw a line Here. Using oxygen, or other performance enhancing drugs, directly impacts your physical abilities and is incomparable to using technical equipment to battle the elements. If you use supplemental oxygen you as well carry some bags of blood up the mountain to supply your body with O2.
When the Russians made the first ascent of the west face direct on K2, completing what is almost certainly the hardest route on K2, in 2007, a lot of people said “they raped the mountain” (on which I don’t agree, it was an awesome effort/climb). And what is climbing K2 in winter using O2? This mountain deserved a better style on the first winter climb, a climb with no O2. Congratulations to the ones who did not use it.
Do you know the reason why the 2 others members continued on straight to BC?
Geljen is super strong, I know him.
Incredible – doubters silenced. Nirmal Purja is just a different species to the rest of us. Historic achievement led by the big man! 🇳🇵
They have just disclosed the winter myth of K2.
Superlatives seem insufficient. The most difficult mountain at the most difficult time of year. Congratulations on this insanely risky achievement….
I’m overjoyed for this remarkable and historic summit of K2 in winter, stunned that it has finally been accomplished. So, so happy in so many ways, perhaps mostly by the coming together of the Nepalese, from different expeditions to conquer K2 and do so emphatically, sharing their personal triumphs equally with their countrymen. I am not concerned about if supplementary O2 was used by some, or all, or none. This is a brutal environment, beyond the limits of human existence and survival. I will always be in awe of extreme athletes, who are willing to risk all for achieving something… Read more »
Angela, so now you want to congratulate Nims even though you criticized his “boasting” and him before? Pathetic. You should never report on Himalayan climbing again
Sometimes a big critic is also a big fan 🙂 Have you ever watched a favorite team totally blow on the field and then you think what a bunch of idiots? Or critique another athlete’s style but totally respect their commitment? How about thinking the world of someone personally but you’d rather take a ice pick in the eye than spend even 1 night in a tent with them? You can be both a fan and a critic. Angela, does a great job with articles. She’ll give you the good, bad, ugly, and give it respect its due. She’s a… Read more »
So we’re only supposed to applaud Nims? He decided he wants to be a public figure. That means people, and especially media, will respond to the way you behave. Thats what we call an open and free society. In the case of Nims she makes a valid point. Why being so obsessed about being the “team “leader”, demoting the others to team members. I think it’s very healthy if the climbing community reflects on this type of attitude. Otherwise great performance of him and the others on K2.
An inspirational leader is necessary to lead from the front and with his energy & enthusiasm to lift the spirits of the team when things are tough and make critical decisions at the right time!
From what I have gathered from limited Nims social posts, he is no ego, he just wants to show the world anything we set our mind to is possible.
But then again you have your lens on how you perceive the world like everyone has their unique lens!
You guys from Nepal should just relax and stop with the insulting comments towards Angela. She has always emphasized on the hard work Sherpas are doing high up the mountains in her articles. In fact, this site has done more to spread the word about the bravery and sacrifices of the local climbing community than any other.
Nims is not the only Nepali in this expedition.
A MASTERPIECE, made in Nepal.
Nice to see their success, particularly after such awful comments from yourself and @russianclimb (Elena) who seems to enjoy bad mouthing Nims yet these comments seem to have vanished from his posts! What a surprise.