Manaslu Updated: Climbers Going Up

Manaslu Winter 8000ers
Manaslu from Base Camp. Photo: Phelipe Eizaguirre.

Alex Txikon and his partners are feeling great at Camp 3 and determined to go all the way to the top.

“We’ve covered in one day what took us three days on the previous rotation, we’re feeling f***ing good and happy with the work done,” an enthusiastic Txikon told his team in Base Camp.

They will leave early in the morning, pitch Camp 4 at about 7,000m by noon, grab a few hours’ shuteye, then head to the summit on Friday night.

“Conditions are okay, and the weather is better than forecast,” said Txikon. “Today we were supposed to get 20cm of snow, but there was nothing. Moreover, the sky is pretty clear. We will go on as long as the wind doesn’t change.”

Only problem: The summit is still far away, and 1,600 vertical metres above. They must cover a long distance, steep terrain, and the final knife-edge ridge to get to the top. And they must be there early on Saturday because the weather is expected to change for the worse later that day and throughout Sunday. On Monday, a snowstorm will settle in for days.

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About the Author

Angela Benavides

Angela Benavides

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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Sara
Sara
4 months ago

Good luck. Hoping and praying u stay safe 🙏

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Walid Hamadeh
Walid Hamadeh
4 months ago

What amazes me is how climbers listen to their instincts and the power of gut feelings. Here we have Txikon and Crew (Chhepal Sherpa and Iñaki Alvarez and Gelung Sherpa and Namja Sherpa) taking a go for the summit and Simone Moro pulling back and waiting it out. They are all technically and physically capable of summiting yet the human psyche has an immense power over someone’s decisions. With the summit push outcome unknown in the next couple of days, would Moro regret not summiting if the summit push was successful?

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Nat
Nat
4 months ago
Reply to  Walid Hamadeh

I think he will try again indeed 😀

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Andrew S.
Andrew S.
4 months ago

Seems like he called off his summit push. His tracker shows him heading back down the mountain, he’s between C2 and C1 now.

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